Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I do my own car washes, but I think I'm due for a full cut and polish.

I don't trust myself to do it in case I screw up the paint work so I want to get it done professionally.

Never been to a detailing place before, but I have found a few places around here in Wollongong.

Not sure which one to goto though, so was wondering where people have gone to before and what were the results like?

Also, would you go back there again?

How much did they charge you and what did you get done exactly?

When I imported my skyline I got it detailed at Evershine Car Detailing in Dapto

20 Hamilton St

2530 Dapto NSW

Phone: (02) 4261 5424

They did a full cut and polish and also some paint touch ups etc..... I can't remember the exact work & figure, because it was back in 2003 I think, Fark.....7yrs ago I bought that car!

Maybe around $3-400 off the top of my head. I haven't been back since, but only because I've had no need. But I would go back there if I did need too.

Next door to W.A.S, kons brother is the best, go past and see what he has in there and that'll make your mind up

Next to Wollongong automotive services you say?

Are they in Auburn street? Do you have the exact address? I cant seem to find them..

I've just been to W.A.S today after work and they said I can take my car in on Monday morning :ermm: It was just near HangDog as you said Owen :)

They said it will cost between 200-$500 depending on how far I want to go with it, step by step. Will take a couple days apparently. Buffing, get rid of swirls, paint chips, blemishes and any other marks.

He said whoever buffed it last didn't do a great job as there are some buff marks in some places and its had some resprays in some areas in its time. Also looks like the boot has had a bit of over spray aswell.

Edited by Owens
I've just been to W.A.S today after work and they said I can take my car in on Monday morning :ermm: It was just near HangDog as you said Owen :)

They said it will cost between 200-$500 depending on how far I want to go with it, step by step. Will take a couple days apparently. Buffing, get rid of swirls, paint chips, blemishes and any other marks.

He said whoever buffed it last didn't do a great job as there are some buff marks in some places and its had some resprays in some areas in its time. Also looks like the boot has had a bit of over spray aswell.

Can you get some before and after photos using a DSLR?

Can you get some before and after photos using a DSLR?

Sure thing :ermm:

Buffing won't get rid of chips because there's no paint there to polish. If you can feel the chip or scratch with your fingernails, it's pretty deep.

yeah, he'll be touching it up with paint.

Edited by Owens

Might be too late for that. I just said I heard about W.A.S on the skyline Australia forum lol. They seemed to know what I was talking about.

Will let you know the results tomorrow arvo!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...