Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 233
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Owen (and anyone else who missed out on the Canon Photo5 comp), they've released (in conjunction with the Today show) a new brief that anyone can enter.

http://www.canon.com.au/weekendtoday/brief.aspx

Who else is entering this? It closes on November 25th.

Who else is entering this? It closes on November 25th.

yeah i was thinking of doing something for this, just waiting for my camera to come back,

Also on another topic, im lookinf at buying a macro lens what is the difference betwwen a 100mm and a 50mm all i want to be able to do is take some close up shots of different things.

100mm probably requires a little more skill and equipment due to the longer focal length and needing a tripod and remote release etc... if your doing true macro stuff with extension tubes and stuff like that. Still handholdable but idea for use with a tripod.

Thats my belief anyway.

i can't do macro without a tripod and a remote trigger, even with f2.8 lens. too much shake.

That'd be the Parkinson's kicking in, Shan. Or the fact that you're shooting Nikon. :D

Lol!

Quick question guys, batteries for my flash gun. Any recommendations? I was thinking some lithiums, but I remember someone saying there is a really good brand from somewhere that makes charge-up times less or something... What do you guys think?

Kory recommends Eneloop's and swears by them. I'm going to pick a set up over the next couple of weeks. I've seen the refresh cycle on them and they're pretty quick compared to normal batteries (duracell ultra's)

Also they're rechargable. Might be worth a look.

I picked them up a few weeks ago.. They do last long, but the only thing i dont like is the charger led indicator. When you charge it the light is green.. It should be red if the battery is not charged, then green light to show its done. I have wait hours and hours and it still stays green?? weird.. or could just be my charger.

I get Powerex 2700mAh batteries. They require a digital charger (so you can't just jam em in your regular ones) best to get a charger from them too. Results in no memory, and they don't dissipate a charge if you don't use em straight away like Eneloops and cheapies. I've left some for months in a case, chucked em in and they still had 95% charge.

http://www.mahaenergy.com/store/viewitem.asp?idproduct=415

amazingly awesome and way way more powerful than most other batteries on the market. I refuse to use anything else in my cameras.

I get Powerex 2700mAh batteries. They require a digital charger (so you can't just jam em in your regular ones) best to get a charger from them too. Results in no memory, and they don't dissipate a charge if you don't use em straight away like Eneloops and cheapies. I've left some for months in a case, chucked em in and they still had 95% charge.

http://www.mahaenergy.com/store/viewitem.asp?idproduct=415

amazingly awesome and way way more powerful than most other batteries on the market. I refuse to use anything else in my cameras.

Not trying to start a war here but here goes :laugh:

I wouldn't really say Eneloops are "cheapies". Many thousands of people swear by them also. They don't dissipate charge either. They come pre-charged straight out of the box and who knows how long they've been sitting on a shelf. Out of all the batteries i've used i find them to be the best. Fastest recycle rate, I've never had them die on me even after hours of use. That's just my personal opinion.

I've never used Powerex batteries so i don't know how they are, but i'd like to try them.

As Sidd said - The charger for them is gay. I use a seperate battery charger so i know when they are charged and because it's faster >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...