Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just completed fitting the rb26 inlet manifold to our rb20det

The process was simple

Took just over 1 weekend to complete

*Cut rb20det runners

*Cut flanges off of rb26 manifold

*Aluminum weld them

*Weld aluminum flange to mount throttle body to the front of the plenum

*Cut and re-position water inlet

*Use porting tool to grind all uneven levels in welded runners (allot of porting is needed)

*Install throttle body

*Install stock rb26 aac valve setup

*Install manifold

*install fuel system

*Run new vacuum lines

*Rerun new intercooler piping

*Relocate bov

....thats about it

People said that i would of lost power

but all we got was good results :P

*The boost is building quicker

*The acceleration is way better now

*The throttle response is really great

*Less intercooler piping (about 4 feet or so less)

and no need to weld a flange to mount the aac valve, we used the stock rb26aac valave setup

* i really cant complaim about anything its a really great upgrade*

more pics will be posted soon

IMG_4421.jpg

Someone asked me what was my supporting mods

its as follows

*Stock rb20 motor

*300zx 45v3 t3 turbo

*10-12 psi boost

*TurboXS boost controller

*Blitz bov

*Blitz LM 3" intercooler

*2.5 intercooler piping

*3" free flow stainless exaust

*Gear box rebuilt

*Upgraded ecu ( flashed\remapped )

*Fidanza 4.3 ceramic clutch kit

*NGK iridium spark plugs

*Walbro external fuel pump

*Runnin on castrol syntec

It will never work. Opps it does damn it .

Ha ha I always wonder why people pull the rb26 intake off and go to a single throttle body

You have done it the oppisite way and made more power good on you.

Would have been great to see an in gear rolling start 40-60km/h, 40-80km/h, 40-100km/h times and a dyno. Did you get the ecu re-flashed? If not then can there really be that much of a difference if the things airflow characteristics didnt change enough to require a tune....or if it did....do you know what is different about the tune in the way fo fuelling and ignition?

Surprised its made such an obvious difference with the turbo and power you are running because there have been various posts with some positive and some negative...lol woudl love to get my head around the reasons :P

But good work on getting it all together and running to your satisfaction

Edited by Roy
one you drive yout car every day and you do an upgrade you will fill the difference be it good or bad

The placebo effect can be very strong when you have put a lot of time and effort into a mod though.

Dyno is hard evidence, shame would have loved to have seen a before and after

I'm curious to know how you got the IAC/AAC system to work considering the log sits on top of the RB26's inner manifold section and has two steel tubes decending between two of the runners and connectiong up to the AAC/IAC chamber .

How ever you got it to work - well done .

A .

I'm curious to know how you got the IAC/AAC system to work considering the log sits on top of the RB26's inner manifold section and has two steel tubes decending between two of the runners and connectiong up to the .

How ever you got it to work - well done .

A .

it was really easy

The 2 lines that run from the two steel tubes decending between the two RB26 runners to the AAC/IAC chamber are vacuum lines

so what i did was run the lines from the 2 metal hose fittings under the RB26 plenum to the AAC/IAC chamber

IMG_4510.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...