Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah I have them and whilst they are reasonably long lasting with decent dry grip for a street tyre, they do have some road noise and suck in the wet if you don't baby it. Access were the cheapest at the time of my purchase. Gonna try Kumhos next time...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342179-federals/#findComment-5521075
Share on other sites

Yeah I have them and whilst they are reasonably long lasting with decent dry grip for a street tyre, they do have some road noise and suck in the wet if you don't baby it. Access were the cheapest at the time of my purchase. Gonna try Kumhos next time...

i know ku36s aint great either then again, rwd + turbo. what ya expect.

anyone tried the federal evos? willing to spend that bit extra for half decent wet weather tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342179-federals/#findComment-5521359
Share on other sites

Go and see Trackside tyres, Kilsyth, he has the latest Federal Semi out at the moment Z XXXX (XX= something something) :P

They ain't even listed on their website yet :(

Saw them there today and nearly became a guinea pig :D

option1 have been selling them for a while. so a few of the guys up there are running them. or is

there a newer version of these? they do a soft, medium, hard compound I think.

http://www.federaltire.com/en/html/pdetail...ine=5&ID=44

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342179-federals/#findComment-5521392
Share on other sites

i know ku36s aint great either then again, rwd + turbo. what ya expect.

anyone tried the federal evos? willing to spend that bit extra for half decent wet weather tyres.

Why the need for wet weather grip?

Realistically, you spend maybe a dozen days a year driving in the wet. The other 300 days it's dry. So long as you are careful, a "good" wet tyre vs a "bad" wet tyre isn't going to matter a pinch of shizen. It's not likely that the "good" tyre will ever save you from a sticky situation, so why aim for that? You're more likely to stack when having a fang in the dry.

Get a tyre which best suits the 99% of driving you actually do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342179-federals/#findComment-5521424
Share on other sites

Why the need for wet weather grip?

Realistically, you spend maybe a dozen days a year driving in the wet. The other 300 days it's dry. So long as you are careful, a "good" wet tyre vs a "bad" wet tyre isn't going to matter a pinch of shizen. It's not likely that the "good" tyre will ever save you from a sticky situation, so why aim for that? You're more likely to stack when having a fang in the dry.

Get a tyre which best suits the 99% of driving you actually do.

Whilst I agree with your perspective it depends on the how often you drive the car and how bad the wet weather performance is.

For my daily driver I chose tyres which offered exceptional all round performance, drive brilliantly and cost a fortune (Michelins). I don't use these tyres on my weekend car which I tend to drive the car roughly 1-2 times per month were I use KU36's.

Whilst the KU36's are ok and they are exactly what I expected (great dry grip, slightly stiffer side walls with a little higher NVH) in every way except wet performance. There wet performance is below what I would have expected with little to no feedback and being highly unpredictable.

For someone who drives there car daily I would suggest not using KU36's.

Here is a review which I agree with, particularly in terms of the vauge feedback and how the car suddenly and unexpectedly looses traction.

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/compar...omparison_tests

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342179-federals/#findComment-5521444
Share on other sites

Whilst I agree with your perspective it depends on the how often you drive the car and how bad the wet weather performance is.

For my daily driver I chose tyres which offered exceptional all round performance, drive brilliantly and cost a fortune (Michelins). I don't use these tyres on my weekend car which I tend to drive the car roughly 1-2 times per month were I use KU36's.

Whilst the KU36's are ok and they are exactly what I expected (great dry grip, slightly stiffer side walls with a little higher NVH) in every way except wet performance. There wet performance is below what I would have expected with little to no feedback and being highly unpredictable.

For someone who drives there car daily I would suggest not using KU36's.

Here is a review which I agree with, particularly in terms of the vauge feedback and how the car suddenly and unexpectedly looses traction.

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/compar...omparison_tests

But as Peter said, wet + turbo can make any tyre look crap. Wet weather performance is 99% how you drive rather than they tyre holding your rims off the ground.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342179-federals/#findComment-5521448
Share on other sites

But as Peter said, wet + turbo can make any tyre look crap. Wet weather performance is 99% how you drive rather than they tyre holding your rims off the ground.

Not true at all. Whilst driver skill always has an effect the difference between good tyres and bad tyres and how well the tyre provides feedback to the driver is paramount to car control.

Tyres are the point of contact between the car and the ground they are the most important factor in car handling, grip and performance for both wet and dry conditions not just holding your rims off the ground or how much throttle you can use on boost whilst going through a puddel.

Tyres are often understated and in particular the value of what a great set of tyres are worth well after the purchase price is forgotten.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342179-federals/#findComment-5522006
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...