Jump to content
SAU Community

Poor Mans 2 Way

Peter89

By Peter89,
in Drivetrain and transmission

 Share

Recommended Posts

fiend. Rookie

fiend.

Posted
Posted (edited)

Running 2.3mm of shims and locked as in the 180sx, all day, everyday. I love it, it's very predictable, and I like the way the car handles with it. In comparison, I hated the viscous lsd before shimming that would open up whenever I tried to put the power down, including in a straight line.. With 230rwkw there was no way I could keep it straight, but with shimming it's perfect.

Have heard of people going a year or more with their shims as good as they were when new. Depends on how thick you go and what condition the diff is in.

Did it over a few beers with some mates. Cost = Shim $18, Diff oil $25, plus beer and ciggies.

Works a treat, and chunks, skips and chirps everywhere lol Will report if it loosens up at all.

PS - it's great in the wet if you know how to use your brakes/ebrake!

Edited by fiend.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
Running 2.3mm of shims and locked as in the 180sx, all day, everyday. I love it, it's very predictable, and I like the way the car handles with it. In comparison, I hated the viscous lsd before shimming that would open up whenever I tried to put the power down, including in a straight line.. With 230rwkw there was no way I could keep it straight, but with shimming it's perfect.

Have heard of people going a year or more with their shims as good as they were when new. Depends on how thick you go and what condition the diff is in.

Did it over a few beers with some mates. Cost = Shim $18, Diff oil $25, plus beer and ciggies.

Works a treat, and chunks, skips and chirps everywhere lol Will report if it loosens up at all.

PS - it's great in the wet if you know how to use your brakes/ebrake!

you should look into better diff oil.... $25 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too cheap

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I removed a 0.8mm and a 1.4mm shim and replaced with two 1.49mm, was pretty tight to begin with, a lot of clunking etc.

Couple of months on now and I barely notice it except when full lock reversing out of a parking spot, but even then it's barely noticable.

Still spins both wheels very predictably.. much safer in the bus than the old open centre :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
fiend. Rookie

fiend.

Posted
Posted
you should look into better diff oil.... $25 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too cheap

It's a viscous lsd with so much preload that all the spider gears are bound up. I have a thick 85w140 oil in there for that reason, and predictability under heat. Penrite limslip should do the job fine imo, it's made for diffs under heavy load. Have used redline heavyweight before, but sif spend $80+ on diff oil for a backyard locked diff lol What oil were you going to suggest?

Oh btw 1400+km's and 3 days straight of tromping up and down the Great Ocean Road and she's still as tight as the day she went in. Very predictable and fine in the wet too, as long as you are sensible about corner entries and shift the weight appropriately.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
ChEwDog Explorer

ChEwDog

Posted
Posted

i have a welded diff on mine since i cant afford a real one just yet . its fun especially on rainy days...but u gotta realize that its locked at all times and going into turns at a fast speed will break traction instasly and make your rear end go nutts. and when normal driving and especially in city limits..hahha be prepared to get strange looks from pedestrians when u take a slow turns...hhahha u go by tires real fast....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

My shimmed stocker is still going strong, has worn in to the point where I no longer notice it but still turns both wheels hard and is super predictable.. best addition I've made to the wagon :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sleepergm
      Genuine nismo N1 rear pods - anyone got any?

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      I’m sure this has been discussed many times. But anyone have any or know someone that is selling genuine N1 rear pods? I’m still shocked no one replicates these yet. Looking to buy some. Added a photo of the part. 👍🏻
    • Nismo32
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Nismo32 · Posted

      Hello, The dog bone wont have much to do with this - the calliper applies a load about the disc - the outside of the calliper is more flexible than the inside by virtue of it not haveing the big torqued down bolts, additional metal structure on the caliper itself, and mostly not being cantilevered. So the outside of the calliper is pushing away as its more bendy and brining the inside with it as an equal pressure on both sides of the caliper looks to cause more flex on the outside - which makes sense. I have done this same thing with the calliper unbolted from the dog bone - same thing happens. Although id have to watch more carefully to see how much more the outside moves than the inside in this case. Im guessing there is a point in the pedals travel where the pressure is not actually increasing in the system - its just volumne displacemnt - and because the outside of the calliper is more flexy, it receives that volume. Have gone back to Alcon again - but beyond a resolution there I would stay clear of this calliper and possibly any of the lighweight type of callipers - especially if you have the smaller 15/16" master cylinder. Cheers.
    • GTSBoy
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, you can very clearly see from more than one angle that it is the whole caliper moving left-right, not deformation of the caliper. The top moves, the bottom moves. Equally. It should be possible to see where the movement is occurring. Just need to look more closely.
    • billyons
      Water pump replacement - Sydney region

      By billyons · Posted

      Hi Folks, my 2009 Skyline 370GT “Crossover” wagon is losing water and has been diagnosed as needing a water pump replacement (it’s an internal timing-chain driven unit, not the usual electric type that seems to be used across many manufacturers). Am looking for any repairer recommendations in the Sydney /Wollongong region who can be trusted and are experienced in this sort of work on the VQ 36 engine. Many thanks….Bill
    • Komdotkom
      Alcon TA6 Calipers on R33 GTST - Flexing

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      While all of the above makes sense, we're not talking about some Ling Long calipers of AliExpress; Alcon would have to be one of the top 5 caliper suppliers in the world and these are not their budget units. If there were manufacturing defects in the caliper causing this issue I'd be very disappointed. Having re-watched the video a few times I think it's dog bone/mount related. The caliper moves independently to the rest of the suspension and brake assembly which suggests to me that it's not mounted rigidly. I know this sounds stupid, but have you got enough thread on the retaining bolts or are they a poofteenth too long and it's not super tight? For axial movement to be occurring without deforming the caliper that can be the only answer.
×
×
  • Create New...