Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well I dont get it then...

Ive already seen my DC at 95% and tuner says I need larger?

That comes down to many things.

Your actual rail pressure, the condition of your injectors (what they are flow matched to), the flow of your fuel pump, etc etc.

I was able to fix a similar issue in a GTR running 800cc injectors @ 300kw on a walbro by means of a fuel pump relay. DC is now 70% max.

  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you might have a fuel rich/safer tune then what hamish is running, that wouldnt be all of the reason why you would have such high duty cycle but it would play a part. Along with what others have said.

I'm not a fan of the bosch 040 in skylines for many reasons, but they do flow well enough. Maybe it might pay to do the direct feed re-wire/pump relay anyway :)

rewiring the fuel pump is easy with R33's or any car that has a battery in the boot. just need a relay and and decent fuse holder with some good thick wire, plenty of DIY info about it.

if you do the rewire and your worried about the tune i can throw my wideband on it and we will go for a little run and check the AFR's

i run 555cc injectors and with the same turbo/engine on e85 i make 325rwkw with a DC of 92%

you'll just squeeze in ;)

your cars a freak tho when it comes to inj d/c. most people wont be able to do that on e85

for example, my cars probably at the other end of the scale, i have the same injectors as you and run about 90-95% at around 260-280rwkw on PULP

can the settings in the ecu affect DC?

one GTR i was tuning maxed out of adjustment on the 20x20 grid while using datalogit and i couldnt get it any more power due to the lack of fuel/inj duty,

BUT

I tried something sneeky and adjusted the value's of the stock injectors to 115percent and left teh lag time at 0 and straight away i had heaps of room to tune with, gained an extra 25kw from stock inj 312.9kw stock RB26 N1 turbo's and poncams stock inj etc

weird.... what other factors can influence dc?

D/C vs power can be influenced by heaps of things including fuel type, fuel pressure, injector condition (flow and latency), richness of the tune, ignition timing (which can be influenced by size of turbos, exhaust, intake, cams etc etc) and different dynos.

89CAL, everytime i hit full load at high rpm

mine hit 100% on high boost.... have been running it like that for 2-3months now, ive got a set of sard 700s just havnt installed em yet. but it hasnt been a prob, ive been checking over the plugs after sprinted drives on high boost just to see if they changing colour at all... so far so good. tuned for 11.0afr wot so its pritty fat away

Essentially, the boost control solenoid has an open or closed position.

Closed position is controlled by gain. The higher the gain the longer the solenoid stays closed and allows the turbo to 'spool'.

Open position is controlled by duty. The higher the duty cycle the shorter time the solenoid lets boost through to the wastegate, being open allows the turbo to vent exhaust gas and drop boost.

Keeping these points in mind, a common fault in tuning is setting a high gain to acheive target boost as quickly as possible, yet have boost drop off in the higher RPM. Obviously based on the above the best way to tune would be to start with a low gain and work your way towards target boost by upping the duty cycle.

You will also see some boost controllers with a 'start boost feature', this feature is what the minimum boost should be before the soldenoid does anything at all (other than stay closed). There are also others that have a gain and boost setting, these have a map inside that calculates its own duty cycle based on pressure at the sensor.

Having one with start boost, duty and gain with limiter type correction also would be best. Not sure what the PFC has tho. With the above in mind you will probably also see the beauty in the turbotech design ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...