Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

got a bit of a strange problem. Just changed the oil on the stag (was a little overdue) and filter. Had a brand new 5L bottle of oil that i put in (the whole lot now... i remember stags taking 4.7L?) and the reading on the dipstick was a little below full (3mm or so)... I took the car for a short spin around the block (400m maybe?) and now the level on the dipstick is sitting about 2mm below low... So, i got on my push bike and rode the same track that I drove the car on and there's no oil, anywhere. I gt off the bike at certain intervals and checked closely just to make sure, but there was no oil anywhere.

I can see no evidence of leaking from the sump plug, nor from the oil filter. Now with the car sitting in the garage, there is a very small pool of the old oil, but i'm pretty convinced that this is from when you take your filter off and it spills all over the front dif, then slowly leaks off.

Where else can it go? Pooling in the head and not coming back down? No warning lights are appearing on the dash. And i don't have any more 10w 30... :ermm: Think i've got a 10w40, but would rather not mix it...

Any help would be appreciated guys :huh:

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342507-my-oil-has-disappeared/
Share on other sites

1) The new filter takes up some oil, remember how much came out when you took the old one off?

2) when you start an engine, and go for a drive, the oil will circulate around the engine doing its job. To get an accurate reading, you need to turn the engine off, and let the oil drain back down into the sump- when the dipstick measures it. The best time to check a dipstick is when the car is cold, and you haven't started the engine for a number of hours, ie overnight. Check it first thing in the morning- I reckon you'll find your missing oil! :ermm:

Good luck!

dont mix oils, very bad idea. can get easily clotted up etc.

but like everyone said, the viscosity of the oil when cold is about 20??? times thicker than when it is hot. (i think thats what it is)

so once you run your car the oil will circulate and since its not hot, it will take its sweet ass time to go back to the sump where your dipstick sits.

if its cold, wait at least 30 minutes before most of it gets back to the sump. if its operating temp, (100-120 degrees) it will only take about 5-10 mins to flow back.

but most cars can eat as much as 1L of oil per 1000km. so check it regularly.

dont mix oils, very bad idea. can get easily clotted up etc.

+1

but most cars can eat as much as 1L of oil per 1000km. so check it regularly.

wut?

if my car is "eating" 1lt per 1000km then I would be worried. That would be a damn good sign you need rings or valve stem seals at the least

haha, i read that in some of the manuals from different car manufacturers.

pretty weird aye.

but they were all 1990's cars. 1991-1997 vw, audi, mercedes. guess couse they were all in germany, different temps etc. dunno.

So, i got on my push bike and .....

I got off the bike at certain intervals and ...

Josh

Yeah I can imagine it Josh :D

No oily smell in your coolant reservoir or oily film across the top? No? Then all's sweet!

+1.

The filter will take at least 250ml of oil. Get the oil hot & it'll flow back to the pan quicker. Wait a few hours & check again.

+1

The 4.7l is a guide, it doesn't include the oil that the filter will take and retain. Always fill to the full line, run the vehicle till the pressure light goes out, turn it off wait a few minutes then re-check and re-fill. Oil coolers, remote mount filters etc etc will affect this also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...