Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

As this car ways a little over 1000 kg the rb20 will pull it along just fine for now. I do want se traction after all :P I will prob buy a rb25 later and open it up then fill it with goodies to make it nice and strong. From what I understand the rb20 can take more punishment than the other rb engines in stock form.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6152440
Share on other sites

The RB20 should serve you well for the time being, but if you do find yourself wanting some extra power then i would advise going with a RB25 like you mentioned above. Sure you can get good power from a RB20 but with the money thats needed to do that your better off with a 25.

And i take that from the pictures above your painting the car green? What's your reasoning behind this? It looked really nice in black.

Once again, lovely looking car, is going to be a beauty when its done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6153145
Share on other sites

As this car ways a little over 1000 kg the rb20 will pull it along just fine for now. I do want se traction after all :P I will prob buy a rb25 later and open it up then fill it with goodies to make it nice and strong. From what I understand the rb20 can take more punishment than the other rb engines in stock form.

the lime yellow or green as you call it is its original colour and it is rather rear in australia. I know its not every ones cup of tea but i like it.

Personaly I dont like black cars. I think it is a boring colour its way too hot especially in an old datsun with a huge trans tunnel and no air conditioning

and black is way to hard to keep clean

here are a few more pics of todays progress

I might even get the body painted next week ;D

IMG_1185.jpg

IMG_1184.jpg

IMG_1183.jpg

IMG_1182.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6153694
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Very Very nice project. My brother had one in that "Lime green" colour when I lived in the States. I still have a '70 240Z sitting in a garage at my mum's place in Seattle. One of these days (when I have a bigger garage) I'll bring it here and do something similar to you.

Can't wait to see some vids of this car running around a racetrack! Keep up the good work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6169038
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

awsome man,

I remeber seeing a s13 in japan with a 240 front on it looked fkn sick.

theres a 260 here in town i keep seeing driving around id love to buy and drop a 26 in it.

good luck with the project

49585469.png

irt355nsimg600x45010676.jpgUploaded with ImageShack.us

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342533-rb-240z/page/2/#findComment-6248986
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...