Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

recently stumbled across this site so thawt id pick your brains,

i have a c35 laurel which use to be rb20de, now gen 2 rb25det,

realised that it boosting only a low 5psi so researched y so low,

came to think that maybe it still had non turbo computer but cant find computer numbers anywer?!?!

23740 0v300 PCMNR 030 C1 6Y05,

Anyway..... thawt id try another ecu from a friend which is a rb25det gen 2

but az i went to plug loom into det ecu noticed that connection points are way different,

gona b a pain if i havto change loom....

Any suggestions?

and info on ecu numbers?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343807-problem-after-problem/
Share on other sites

As above boost is 5psi-7psi running through factory boost solenoid.

Boost gauge could also be faulty.

But as you said, the loom does not seem to be matching up to ECU...

Best to take pics of loom plugs and ECU and post them up.

In your case though, if i were in your shoes I would be taking it to a reputable workshop.

As above boost is 5psi-7psi running through factory boost solenoid.

Boost gauge could also be faulty.

But as you said, the loom does not seem to be matching up to ECU...

Best to take pics of loom plugs and ECU and post them up.

In your case though, if i were in your shoes I would be taking it to a reputable workshop.

Ok will upload photos tomorrow, btw this is my first turbo vehicle so i am totaly in new grounds

thanks for your time guys

As others have already said. Geeze your game doing an engine conversion yourself on your first turbo vehicle!

Lol you get that wen ur kiwi bud :D , been around rbs for a while just managed to own one thats all...

As above boost is 5psi-7psi running through factory boost solenoid.

Boost gauge could also be faulty.

But as you said, the loom does not seem to be matching up to ECU...

Best to take pics of loom plugs and ECU and post them up.

In your case though, if i were in your shoes I would be taking it to a reputable workshop.

this is loom plug in and ecu from laurel at the moment

post-78346-1289465761_thumb.jpg

prety sure if i find out wot ecu is from then i'll no what loom is.

if i was you i would save the dosh and get a aftermarket ECU with loom and wire that in you will get alot more kws and alot more for in the future

DO IT ONCE DO IT RIGHT!!!!!!!!!

if i was you i would save the dosh and get a aftermarket ECU with loom and wire that in you will get alot more kws and alot more for in the future

DO IT ONCE DO IT RIGHT!!!!!!!!!

Oooooo when i hear aftermarket ecu i rub my hands together like i fly, Mwha hah hah

Hey guys,

recently stumbled across this site so thawt id pick your brains,

i have a c35 laurel which use to be rb20de, now gen 2 rb25det,

realised that it boosting only a low 5psi so researched y so low,

came to think that maybe it still had non turbo computer but cant find computer numbers anywer?!?!

23740 0v300 PCMNR 030 C1 6Y05,

Anyway..... thawt id try another ecu from a friend which is a rb25det gen 2

but az i went to plug loom into det ecu noticed that connection points are way different,

gona b a pain if i havto change loom....

Any suggestions?

and info on ecu numbers?

Cheers

That ecu number is for a Series 1 C34 Stagea turbo auto with what the Skyline people would call a S2 RB25DET. What you need is an RB20 actuator for your turbo which will give you around 10 psi or just use a cheap bleed style boost controller (or an expensive electronic one if you have the means!).
That ecu number is for a Series 1 C34 Stagea turbo auto with what the Skyline people would call a S2 RB25DET. What you need is an RB20 actuator for your turbo which will give you around 10 psi or just use a cheap bleed style boost controller (or an expensive electronic one if you have the means!).

Ahh k sweet az, how did you find out about ecu numbers? if i use rb20 actuator, how will the hi/low boost react?

There is a list of ecus on the SDU website but anyway I used to have such an ecu. You should biff the stock solenoid and either run a pipe straight to the actuator for around 10 psi or run a bleed to get more (or a proper boost controller).

You can get more boost from the actuator you have by biffing (or at least by-passing) the solenoid and using the T to run a bleed to to the bov return pipe. You need to relocate the restrictor in the actuator line to the bleed line. If that doesn't give you enough boost you can progressively drill out the restrictor (bigger hole = more boost). i.e. existing line from boost pipe to T, one line to actuator other to bov return pipe.

Same as r34 rb25 ecu.
Sadly the ecu in question is from a S1 Stagea (with the R33 engine)which looks like the R34 plug but the ecu is different in a number of respects. If it were a S2 Stagea (with the neo engine) it would indeed be very similar to the R34 ecu and would be capable of accepting a Nistune chip which the S1 cannot.
Sadly the ecu in question is from a S1 Stagea (with the R33 engine)which looks like the R34 plug but the ecu is different in a number of respects. If it were a S2 Stagea (with the neo engine) it would indeed be very similar to the R34 ecu and would be capable of accepting a Nistune chip which the S1 cannot.

i thought a repin was all that was needed to run a r34 ecu? will have to check my notes.

Sadly the ecu in question is from a S1 Stagea (with the R33 engine)which looks like the R34 plug but the ecu is different in a number of respects. If it were a S2 Stagea (with the neo engine) it would indeed be very similar to the R34 ecu and would be capable of accepting a Nistune chip which the S1 cannot.

The engine in car is not neo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...