Rb20 Overheating

[stewari]

hey guys just wondering if anyone can help me out as ive been told to many things and am spending to much money

the car is a r32 skyline with a rb20det and running a gt30 and the other usual crap. the ferstime it got hot we then changed the fan to a thermo fan still over heated then still over heated so switched to a different thirmo fan still over heated got a thick as hell alloy radwith yet anougher thermo fan and still over heats. have been told that the head might have chacked but the coolent is clean and oil is normal so i dont think it would be that problem.

any one know what the issue would be

thanks stuart

[bcozican]

is that off a std temp gauge or aftermarket

go back to clutch fan setup - proven to be ok time and time again

[RBceffy25]

My missus corolla had a cracked head recently and the only symptoms were it would over heat maybe once or twice a week and needed the coolant to be topped up a sh$t load every time it happened. So I started checking the coolant daily and found some days it was ok (night driving only, so it seemed) but most other times it needed a little top up. I spent ages replacing things, getting angry and swearing a lot. I took it to my a radiator guy and told him everything. All he did was pop the bonnet, pop the radiator cap, disconnect the ignition coil and crank the engine. It was immediately apparent that compression was escaping through the cooling system. You could literally see wisps of compression as it bubbled out of the radiator.

A few weeks later the RB25 in my ceffie started doing a very similar thing. So I did the same test and got the same results. Prior to testing my cefiro I performed the test on my bro's C33, RB20E which has a buggered radiator so is always overheating and there was no burbling of the coolant. Just nice still coolant, as it should be.

So Try that, otherwise perform a compression test.

If no results, then have a leakdown test performed.

My two cents.

Hope this helps!

Cheers!

Edited November 11, 2010 by RBceffy25

[stewari]

had it checked and they found nothing but then said just change it so just baught a $700 head and i really dout its the issue.

just changed back the the standard fan but yeah dont know

[stewari]

would having the heater hoses blocked off make a issue?

[R31 POWER]

Have you bleed it? You would be surprised how quickly it will get hot with air in the system!

[blind_elk]

Have you considered that the water pump is dieing - the impeller fins corrode away from not running proper coolant mixtures.

[XxNinjaxX]

1.thermostate

2.air in system (raise the front of the car right up, like as high as you can get it and crack off the air bleeder and let it run. then just top up the coolant as required should be alright after that if its got air)

3.water pump failure

4.shit coolant (buy some nissan gen and mix it 60 coolant/40 water) its good stuff man i wouldnt use anything else.

oh another thing, where are the heater hoses blocked off from? if its straight off the motor ok but if you still have the hoses connected and blocked off after the heater core then there will be air, the core always seems to hold air in it, its a pain in the ass

Edited November 13, 2010 by XxNinjaxX

[GTScotT]

A few things you need to clarify:

Under what conditions does it over heat?

What "thick as" radiator do you have and did it have the problem before you put this in?

What intercooler are you running?

Have you bled the system correctly?

Have you done a comp test?

Have you done a co test on your radiator?

Fill in the above to proceed, thanks.

[stewari]

brand new alloy 50mm rad and had the same issue before with the sandard one.

600x300x75 intercooler angle mounted

compression test reads fine

ill do what you said about making shaw if there is any air trapped in the system

thanks for the help

[GTScotT]

brand new alloy 50mm rad and had the same issue before with the sandard one.

600x300x75 intercooler angle mounted

Can you explain what you mean by angle mounted? And do you have the stock cooler at home still so you can try that?

Also, what brand is this 50mm alloy rad?

You should do the CO test asap.

[zebra]

1.thermostate

2.air in system (raise the front of the car right up, like as high as you can get it and crack off the air bleeder and let it run. then just top up the coolant as required should be alright after that if its got air)

3.water pump failure

4.shit coolant (buy some nissan gen and mix it 60 coolant/40 water) its good stuff man i wouldnt use anything else.

oh another thing, where are the heater hoses blocked off from? if its straight off the motor ok but if you still have the hoses connected and blocked off after the heater core then there will be air, the core always seems to hold air in it, its a pain in the ass

One thing to note on Point #4, straight water is the best for cooling, it absorbes and transfers heat better than a mix of water and glycol.

The more "radiator fluid" you add the less efficient the cooling system is, but it means the boiling point is higher and resists corrosion.

[XxNinjaxX]

One thing to note on Point #4, straight water is the best for cooling, it absorbs and transfers heat better than a mix of water and glycol.

The more "radiator fluid" you add the less efficient the cooling system is, but it means the boiling point is higher and resists corrosion.

cheers for the info, was unaware of that. However i run a mix of 60/40 and mine never even makes half on the gauge. the most water i would have in my system personally is 50% purely to avoid corrosion in the motor and lowering the chance of boiling the motor (defiantly don't want to do this!) but yeah that's just me, cheers again for the information!

[stewari]

did comp test again and was fine then checked out some other crap i dont understand and turns out its the head gasket (dont really understand as i thought it woiuld show in the comp test but anyway

thanks for the help guys

so seeing its going to be open dropping some forgies in

Edited November 18, 2010 by stewari