Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've had the car for a few days and everything's pretty good but I did notice a few things:

Suspension creaking noises - I was told by the seller (who was told by Andy I think) that due to the "alloy bushes"? used in the M35 the suspension will creak a little when 1st driven?

Turbo noise - didn't get any of this on my way back from Sydney, but now I notice SOMETIMES (maybe 50%) when I hit boost, I get a "rubbing" noise - imagine driving over the rumble strips on the Hume, now speed it up x2. Sounds just like that...

Is something about to die?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344214-suspensionengine-noises/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If the bearings are on the way out theres nothing you can do about it, highflow time. I would say most Japanese owners would be getting rid of these before the 100,000k turbo replacement or when noises start.

If the bearings are on the way out theres nothing you can do about it, highflow time. I would say most Japanese owners would be getting rid of these before the 100,000k turbo replacement or when noises start.

So the rubbing noise = bearing failing?

I would think it would sound more...metallic/high pitched?

So the rubbing noise = bearing failing?

I would think it would sound more...metallic/high pitched?

The bearings hold the wheels in place, when they wear, the compressor wheel sometimes starts to rub on the front housing causing damage. If the rear bearing wears, the ceramic turbine blades shatter.

What sort of rubbing noise are we talking about? Sounds like what Cams car used to do when the manifold was leaking too, farting... :rolleyes:

The bearings hold the wheels in place, when they wear, the compressor wheel sometimes starts to rub on the front housing causing damage. If the rear bearing wears, the ceramic turbine blades shatter.

What sort of rubbing noise are we talking about? Sounds like what Cams car used to do when the manifold was leaking too, farting... :blink:

Sounds like when you drive over the rumble strip on the left lane on a highway...speed it up x 2 and you have it.

Does remind me of a very low sounding fart...

I might just have to come around and show you :rolleyes:

Sounds like when you drive over the rumble strip on the left lane on a highway...speed it up x 2 and you have it.

Does remind me of a very low sounding fart...

I might just have to come around and show you :rolleyes:

Could just be the manifold to turbo bolts then, dump has to come off to get to them...

Sounds like when you drive over the rumble strip on the left lane on a highway...speed it up x 2 and you have it.

Does remind me of a very low sounding fart...

I might just have to come around and show you :rolleyes:

Sound is probably caused by the turbo not getting enough air.

I had that exact same sound prior to opening up the intake.

1. make sure you have a high flowing panel filter in your airbox

2. if it still makes the noise, get Scott to make you up a suction pipe LIKE MINE

Edited by iamhe77
get a dry one, i rekon the oiled ones are a bit iffy and MIGHT affect performance by leaving oil deposits on the AFM

+1 on getting a dry filter although the oiled ones will only bugger up the AFM if they are over oiled.

I have been using an Amsoil EaA filter (as per the G35 Infinity) for a few years now, no probs with it at all :D

Was quite a reasonable price (much cheaper than K&N etc) from these guys

Good flow, good filtration, good price :D

Edited by iamhe77
+1 on getting a dry filter although the oiled ones will only bugger up the AFM if they are over oiled.

I have been using an Amsoil EaA filter (as per the G35 Infinity) for a few years now, no probs with it at all :D

Was quite a reasonable price (much cheaper than K&N etc) from these guys

Good flow, good filtration, good price :D

Couldn't find air filters on their site?

found these: http://www.nengun.com/nismo/s-tune-sports-air-filter

Which is the correct part number? And How long do they last?

The K&N ones supposedly last 50k km???

That "rubbing" noise is the blow off valve.

It's almost like a brrrrruuuu as you slowly let your foot off the pedal during full boost, isn't it?

It's quite common.

You can fix this by blocking the blow off valve off or replacing it with a different one.

That "rubbing" noise is the blow off valve.

It's almost like a brrrrruuuu as you slowly let your foot off the pedal during full boost, isn't it?

It's quite common.

You can fix this by blocking the blow off valve off or replacing it with a different one.

I don't suggest it, mine holds 22 psi just fine. I drove Aarons with an aftermarket bov and wasn't impressed. Sorry Aaron. :)

That fart sound from the stock blow off valve is embarassing. Especially if you've got chicks in the car :)

From outside they look at the car and it looks like it's new but little do they know when you boost a bit, it poos in it's pants.

I don't suggest it, mine holds 22 psi just fine. I drove Aarons with an aftermarket bov and wasn't impressed. Sorry Aaron. :)

PSSHHHTTT...... Hektic!

Re fart noise- Sounds like +1 for having a NA car. Chicks don't think you had a bad Curry the night before ..... :)

That "rubbing" noise is the blow off valve.

It's almost like a brrrrruuuu as you slowly let your foot off the pedal during full boost, isn't it?

It's quite common.

You can fix this by blocking the blow off valve off or replacing it with a different one.

So will this issue damage the turbo/engine if I don't fix it soon?

I don't want to get any BOV which makes stupid "pffffffeeeeeeeeeeeew" noises.

Hunt around for a stock one I guess?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...