Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yep very impressive

read a review where they say the extra 40hp feels like 100, and theyre probably right

ill look into swapping my '10 for an '11 when it hits the showrooms

ill have around 10k kms on it by then

Really? I would just get a tune on an 09 or above. it will feel faster than the new one easily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344311-new-gtr-2011/#findComment-5550789
Share on other sites

Really? I would just get a tune on an 09 or above. it will feel faster than the new one easily.

as much as i want to, and would have already done so by now, i like being held tight at night with a manufacturer warranty

ive been down the void warranty route in modifying my M3 and it was no fun when things (inevitiably) go wrong

it will be a drainer to have to repaint/clear bra the sills, re-dynamat the rear seats, and swap over a few other bolts on, so ill drive it when its available and see if it's worth the hassle

quick note on that vid, seems theres no axle tramp when using the LC like all the series 1 LC vids

what i really want to know is if they've gotten rid of that 0.5 seconds of no-mans land jumping on the throttle from standstill

Edited by domino_z
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344311-new-gtr-2011/#findComment-5550802
Share on other sites

It really appears that all the difference besides the extra 40 HP (which would account for all of maybe 0.2 second) is in that initial jump. Other than fine tuning the launch RPM what else could they have done? It would be interesting to observe the boost gauge on the new model to see if they have managed to get the turbos spooling up more with foot on brake and accelerator so that more torque is available instantaneously and more smoothly at lower RPM without the monstrous RPM shocking the drivetrain as was the case with LC1. Has anyone played with the new Cobb Accessport with the TCM module and launched at the preset 3300 or 3700 and seen what difference that makes to 0-100 times?

Very impressive nonetheless. I wonder if the quarter mile has improved significantly?

Edited by fungoolie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344311-new-gtr-2011/#findComment-5551327
Share on other sites

Very impressive nonetheless.

Yeah i agree. On it's own - compared to common mods most of us do (exhaust, tune, e85, etc) it's nothing specia really, but as a full weight STOCKER car (a fraction of the cost of comparable vehicles) if they are running 0~100km.hr in 3.04s then that is seriously impressive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344311-new-gtr-2011/#findComment-5551445
Share on other sites

as much as i want to, and would have already done so by now, i like being held tight at night with a manufacturer warranty

ive been down the void warranty route in modifying my M3 and it was no fun when things (inevitiably) go wrong

Yes but Domino that would be a false economy spending all that cash just to for the sake of maintaining your warranty and be doing sub 3's. You'd be dropping $40K by selling your current car and then having to spend another $20-$30K extra (if the rumours are correct) on the new one. You'd probably be able to buy the AMS or Switzer 1000HP packages for that kind of money and have some left over for the "inevitable" breakages.

However to be more sensible I'd go down the Cobb, Midpipe, E85 route and get Martin to upgrade the trans to take the extra grunt if you're really concerned. Warrranty is worth something but not that much!

Edited by fungoolie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344311-new-gtr-2011/#findComment-5551510
Share on other sites

the change over wont be a deciding factor

will wait to see how/if it drives any different

as much as i love this car, there are less tangible things i value in the new model - the uprated interior materials, improved paint quality, etc that i will wait to assess in the flesh

Edited by domino_z
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344311-new-gtr-2011/#findComment-5551574
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...