Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Well the other day i filled up at a shell - was driving down the road and thought i'd check how many k's i can get outta a tank - so i hit the trip metre reset.....as soon as i did the trip metre stoped working (still sitting @ 0000000) and my main KM's odometre is 'stuck' just as it's changing to 64200 km's

i could be happy about this - keeping the k's low etc, but iw ant to service reguarly and keep the car totally legit! I am thinking perhaps a spring has come loose or something?

I know nothing about how they work etc - so i have no fuc|;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34474-my-ks-aint-clicking-over/
Share on other sites

Same happened to me. You are looking at 90 dollars to fix it which involves taking it out and finding a place near to you or about $100 - $150 on buying a replacement odometer.

Its only worth fixing if you can spare the time. I think it's much better idea to replace it if you can find one with similar K's on it.

Oh and they break because they've been wound back... which you knew since you have a 93 R33 with HAHAH 64200kms on it ;)

well i fixed it

the problem wasn't pushing it in - when i pushed it in, it got stuck in - so i pulled it and it clicked then it's working again now..

you guys think my odometre has been wound back? i guy i know looked at the seal around the box and it seemed to have not been tampered with - the car was brought over here decmeber last year and had 4 k's on it after comliance - japan is a small place :)

you guys think my odometre has been wound back? i guy i know looked at the seal around the box and it seemed to have not been tampered with - the car was brought over here decmeber last year and had 4 k's on it after comliance - japan is a small place :)
My '98 had 66,000km on it when I picked it up.... so it can't be that small.

How worn is your interior? have to be pretty schmick of the k's are genuine.

Another way to help tell if the car has had k's wound back is to check if the factory bushes are still in place in the suspension. These won't last 100,000km so if they are still there and not aftermarket items there is a good chance that the kms are genuine. However they could have been replaced with factory items, but why would you if you can get better aftermarket ones for about the same price.

My 1988 VR4 had 58,000 on the clock and they are original km's as the car is immaculant inside and only dirty under the bonnet. I used this Simple Green stuff and now it looks brand new. The body looks like it lived its whole 16 years outside and been washed in a auto car wash 1 million times, but you can tell if the odo has been fiddled with, you cannot hide wear and tear.

It has always worried me about imports and odo fiddling, it looks like it does happen often from some of the posts on this thread.

Mal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...