Jump to content
SAU Community

emergency clutch problem please help


junkie13
 Share

Recommended Posts

Umm possibly not. You really need to give a better description of what went on. did you just come out to drive it this morning and it wouldn't go? were you flogging it last nite and it made a bang and would't go? could possibly be a drive shaft/ tailshaft or input shaft from the gear box all of which would have made a bang if they broke.

tell us more dude, also from sig I'm guessing a GTR?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok this is what happen i try to test my clutch if it is slipping so i start on third gear and revved and i heard nothing and the car just revs and dont go anywhere so i pulled over to the side and put in gear and leave the clutch and it didnt stall so i try every gear and it didnt stall so i assume its not even in gear and it is the gtr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmm so it was driving fine before you stopped (at a set of lights) ?? and put it in third to take off? and it is a GTR?? more details dude. and by the way you should put it in 5th and let the clutch out to see if it is slipping. but really a slipping clutch on a car with any decent amount will easily be felt when it comes onto boost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thinking about it... is the clutch fluid full? did you get under the car and see if there is any fluid leaking? is there any kind of a smell? when the car is ideling put the clutch in and out, maybe in the garage or in a confined space so you can hear any different noises it makes while you do this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does sound like the clutch to me, This also happened to me in my old car. But i might be wrong.. Dont take my word for it and go changing your clutch :Oops: .

I feel for you dude.. Just picked up your car didnt you? Black smoke coming out and now having more problems... :goddam:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

which part is clutch fluid and yeh it had smeel since i bought it and there is no leakage as i can see it but i am getting it towed tommorrow since i need it but i just want to determined the probs first i guess thats what happen if you buy those 89 gtrs hope nothing else arise

Link to comment
Share on other sites

do u have a clutch pedal at all? Ur cable could be broken? The throwout bearing used to get stuck with my old brass button when i got the car and i would have to stop on the side of the road. Way i would overcome it was, turn the car off put it in gear and start the car in gear so it jumps abit but then change gears once with no clutch and it went clunk and pops back into place, doesnt sound like ur prob but hey u never know. My clutch lasted for ages one it started slipping, so i find it odd to have it just fail without warning on u, maybe there is more to it. good luck in finding the prob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

only thing i can thing that it could be, that u blown the synchromeshing or the actual linkage to the gearbox, and no it doesnt sount like a clutch, cos if it was clutch the motor, you will hear it rev up and spool up but not move fast at all, so therefore im pretty sure its not the clutch but the box, u might wanna check that to, it happened to me in the laser, (yeah i know a laser is diff to a skyline, but after a 1 grand super single clutch, i knew it wasnt the clutch, and i blew the synchromeshing)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of two things:

1. Broke the centre out of the clutch's driven plate.

2. Broke the input shaft to the gearbox.

Junkie, you still haven't made it very clear what went on prior to you getting no drive from the gearbox. If you were caning it, then we need to know stuff like that before we can make a diagnosis. It's like going to the doctor and simply saying "I feel crook in the guts". Doc can't very well diagnose what is causing it with a statement like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...