Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 174
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I dont think the price is bad at all.

5500 and you get a crank rods and pistons. If your looking at building a rb30det then your up for alot of that anyway.

Im not interested in the peak power, peak power is for spanking of with your friends with. Look at the area under the curve and see if thats bigger.

Power makes you a hero at the pub, torque makes you a hero at the lights.

This thing will be very nice to drive on the street with heaps of grunt

5,500 + Block machining, which isnt much really, but to rev it to 8,000rpm you would need the billet caps and girdle, So no idea how much that is, + head work to be able to take advantage of the extra 400cc + cams + larger Valves + springs/retainers.

Just buying the rotating assembly is one thing, actually using it effectively is another.

Eg I was looking at building a 408cube stroker out of the cleveland I have, but ive decided against it because I want to use the standard cast iron heads etc, so there is no point to having an engine that big if the heads cant flow enough to take advantage.

A little different when a turbo is involved but the same basic gist still applies.

I dont think the price is bad at all.

5500 and you get a crank rods and pistons. If your looking at building a rb30det then your up for alot of that anyway.

Im not interested in the peak power, peak power is for spanking of with your friends with. Look at the area under the curve and see if thats bigger.

Power makes you a hero at the pub, torque makes you a hero at the lights.

This thing will be very nice to drive on the street with heaps of grunt

I have to agree with you on that. Also considering what other companies charge I think the price is more than reasonable and very well priced compared to the competition.

Eg I was looking at building a 408cube stroker out of the cleveland I have, but ive decided against it because I want to use the standard cast iron heads etc, so there is no point to having an engine that big if the heads cant flow enough to take advantage.

A little different when a turbo is involved but the same basic gist still applies.

Not really In the case of the cleveland yes money is better spent elsewhere on that engine if your using the stock head.

But flow is a direct connection to the pressure drop across the valve. if you move more air under the valve the pressure drop across the valve is higher and thus flows more. thats why heads are measured in airflow at a set vaccum. if you crank up the vaccum the head flows more

I have to agree with you on that. Also considering what other companies charge I think the price is more than reasonable and very well priced compared to the competition.

Taking in to consideration the lack of a counterweighted crank shaft I dont think it would hold up as value if it were any more expensive,

Not really In the case of the cleveland yes money is better spent elsewhere on that engine if your using the stock head.

But flow is a direct connection to the pressure drop across the valve. if you move more air under the valve the pressure drop across the valve is higher and thus flows more. thats why heads are measured in airflow at a set vaccum. if you crank up the vaccum the head flows more

Yeah thats fair enough, but if the ports simple cant flow any more air at 351cubes, than it sure as hell wont flow enough for 408, sure it will make more torque in the midrange and off idle, but past 5000rpm the power curve will nose dive like a possessed kamakazi pilot.

5,500 + Block machining, which isnt much really, but to rev it to 8,000rpm you would need the billet caps and girdle, So no idea how much that is, + head work to be able to take advantage of the extra 400cc + cams + larger Valves + springs/retainers.

Just buying the rotating assembly is one thing, actually using it effectively is another.

Eg I was looking at building a 408cube stroker out of the cleveland I have, but ive decided against it because I want to use the standard cast iron heads etc, so there is no point to having an engine that big if the heads cant flow enough to take advantage.

A little different when a turbo is involved but the same basic gist still applies.

Really depends on the application you want it for....Just like anything else. Seeing how sweet the improvement is in the midrange, its ideal for a circuit engine. Actually its ideal for pretty well everything if you have the money. More cubes can only help, no matter how you best utilise it.

Taking in to consideration the lack of a counterweighted crank shaft I dont think it would hold up as value if it were any more expensive,

Noel I believe he is looking at making fully counterweighted items later on. Though honestly thats really of no concern to most of us unless you are aiming for sky high revs.

Really depends on the application you want it for....Just like anything else. Seeing how sweet the improvement is in the midrange, its ideal for a circuit engine. Actually its ideal for pretty well everything if you have the money. More cubes can only help, no matter how you best utilise it.

I 100% agree that It will be better for a circuit or street engine, I think most people buying them will be all "omg I could heaps spool 2x T51R-Spl turbos at 3000rpm" and make 5000hp.

If I were building a solid RB street/track engine I would go for one of these for sure.

But With out seeing long term high rpm use without the fancy pants girdle I will remain a non fan boy of the setup, but will wait with open eyes and ears for independent results of these kits.

Noel I believe he is looking at making fully counterweighted items later on. Though honestly thats really of no concern to most of us unless you are aiming for sky high revs.

Agreed 100% Mike. My comment was not deregatory in any way. Merely pointing out that if it was any more expensive then the 3.2 option from nitto with the counter weighted crank would start to look attractive. Particulalry for those wanting to rev it hard.

Something you wouldnt have to do with 3.4 litres on board.

I still want to know the rod length and pin height, My guess is the rods are around the 5.8-5.9" mark (maybe standard 25/26 length?), I dont think there is room to raise the pin heights for standard 6" rods and a 9mm stroke increase

You can pull the pin heights for an RB30 piston from 32mm (stock) back to 27mm with a custom piston height and a stock 21mm gudgen. Then you can use common 6" rods on the 95mm crank. That would be my choice to keep the rod ratio up. The other option is to use a custom piston with a less agressive pin height change (say 28mm) and then use old "school approach" with a thicker gasket (1.5mm) to accomodate a positive deck and achieve a good 1mm deck height.

I think many of you are missing the point of the stroker engine. The whole point is that you dont have to rev them, so frankly who cares if it cant rev past 8000 rpm. Look at what the R35's rev too. Displacement really does make a huge difference. And not just in when a turbo starts to respond, or hit wastegate boost. The off boost drive is much better. Throttle response is much quicker.

Also matching a head and cam configuration to the added displacement to "optimise" the package for peak power or torque isnt necessarily the ideal goal anymore. This is the conventional thinking with a stock displacement Rb25/26, to try and ring every last kw/nm out of the displacement. However suppose you can reach your power goal without having to run crazy cam and port head porting. The result will be an engine that has street manners. It will be easier to drive than an identically powered smaller engine because it will idle like stock, and produce usable torque below 1500 rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...