Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've got a R32 gtst and my front coilovers are ont he way out and I'm about to buy some new ones.

I was wondering how bad softer spring rates on the front would be?

Right now I have 8kg rates int he back and the coilovers I want for the front are 6 or 7kg's.

Is this a terrible idea? It would be mainly for street driving and drifting once a month.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345610-higher-rear-spring-rates-bad/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

not terrible, but unwise, depending on your ARB rates, and at a long shot, ur RC heights.

inducing huge oversteer doesnt really help anything, circuit it just makes the car shit to drive, auto/motokhana it makes the car shit to launch, and drift it makes the car lack any ability to hold high angle (although making it easy to an amateur to initiate)

I dont think the differences will be massivly drastic.

And its not a bad idea.

You may have to adjust the way you drive a little and prepare to catch the car when your giving it a poke.

Softer springs in the front will increase complience in the front and decrease understeer, making it want to oversteer.

You can tune out some of the oversteer if your THAT worried about it by running 1-2mm of toe in on each wheel at the rear and getting the camber settings right at the rear. Also, you can run lower tyre pressures in the rear. If you can, soften the dampers at the rear and soften swaybar if you can adjust it.

well soft springs...say king springs will make the car comfortable but handle like shit as you do want some amount of hardness. the usual spring rate is 8 front 6rear for s13 sr/ca but for a r32/a31/s13 with a rb in it 10 front 6 rear

Edited by Dan_J

6 or 7kg front and 8kg rear will be nasty to drive and you'd really want to be on-the-ball if it ever rained. Trust me. I actually play around with different spring rates on my track car, not just make a guess and say "I doubt it will be a big deal". Even 25lb/in increments (half a kg/mm) make big differences.

"Softening shocks" will not change the mid corner balance, that's all down to spring rate. Shocks affect transient behaviours - change of directions, bumps etc.

The sensible thing to do is put the current 8kg rear springs on the front coilovers, get the 6kg springs with the new coilovers and fit them on the rears. 7kg would still be taily with 8kg fronts.

What's the current front spring rate?

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...