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Awd To Rwd

dannyb

By dannyb,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Mine is faster and more economical in RWD.

Think about it.. instead of engaging the clutchpacks to drive the front wheels, the front wheels just become parasitic losses. It's not going to be as efficient as a pure RWD though.

You would also have less wear on clutch components as there is less traction which means less load and less stress. I don't know about the M35's, but I regularly bounce the limiter in 1st in RWD and 4WD and the wagoon is still going strong. It constantly surprises me with the abuse she takes, just laps it up and asks for more!

Our 4WD systems are quite intuitive, while there may be only a 5% split normally, under heavy acceleration and heavy breaking the system will feed more torque to the front. So really, any form of spirited driving is stressing the system.

That said, there is a surprising amount of traction still available in RWD (I do have a fair bit of suspension work though).

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wolverine
wolverine

Just for the record, if you are putting a car on a two wheel dyno I would strongly suggest removing the front drive shaft. If there is any electronic glitch while the drive shaft is still connected t

chuckie
chuckie

Well Try it & see what you get ,

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DeanR33 Enthusiast

DeanR33

Posted
Posted

Mine is faster and more economical in RWD.

Think about it.. instead of engaging the clutchpacks to drive the front wheels, the front wheels just become parasitic losses. It's not going to be as efficient as a pure RWD though.

You would also have less wear on clutch components as there is less traction which means less load and less stress. I don't know about the M35's, but I regularly bounce the limiter in 1st in RWD and 4WD and the wagoon is still going strong. It constantly surprises me with the abuse she takes, just laps it up and asks for more!

Our 4WD systems are quite intuitive, while there may be only a 5% split normally, under heavy acceleration and heavy breaking the system will feed more torque to the front. So really, any form of spirited driving is stressing the system.

That said, there is a surprising amount of traction still available in RWD (I do have a fair bit of suspension work though).

Thanks for that. As soon as the snow has gone and the weather improved a little, I'll be trying it out some more.

  • 5 months later...
BMX666 Enthusiast

BMX666

Posted
Posted

Can someone put up what it says in the manual word for word on this please? I'm interested in the particulars. I see the basics. Unplug the wire, turn ignition to on (not started), pump the brake 5 times in 10 seconds. But do you have to plug the wire in again before driving or leave it unplugged? Does it need to be done again every time you start the car after turning it off? I'm curious to try this on my series 2 rs4s but want to know the exact details first. Thanks.

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

Can someone put up what it says in the manual word for word on this please? I'm interested in the particulars. I see the basics. Unplug the wire, turn ignition to on (not started), pump the brake 5 times in 10 seconds. But do you have to plug the wire in again before driving or leave it unplugged? Does it need to be done again every time you start the car after turning it off? I'm curious to try this on my series 2 rs4s but want to know the exact details first. Thanks.

pump and go

it resets every time the car is turned off

post-51118-0-93130200-1305951659_thumb.jpg

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

pump and go

it resets every time the car is turned off

Don't have my car here ATM - is there any reason to suppose this won't work on a S1 C34? Or to put it another way can anyone with a S1 confirm that they have done this successfully?

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

Don't have my car here ATM - is there any reason to suppose this won't work on a S1 C34? Or to put it another way can anyone with a S1 confirm that they have done this successfully?

i reckon it should work cos i think the way the transfer case works the same way (shoves fluid in till the wheels spin the same speed)

only 1 way to find out tho

BMX666 Enthusiast

BMX666

Posted
Posted

Sorry the exact title was "tuning in RWD" and it was a few threads down - its now top of the next page.

Yeah I looked at that too. The link in there brings you here. It's like this thread is the centre of the universe and all links lead here. Haha. Thanks anyway mate. Going to give this a shot today.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I feel I must just note to you guys that if you want to drive around in 2WD, you have to START the car and then hit the brake pedal 5 times. If you turn to the key to on and do it, it resets when you then start the car.

shotpointblank Collaborator

shotpointblank

Posted
Posted

I feel I must just note to you guys that if you want to drive around in 2WD, you have to START the car and then hit the brake pedal 5 times. If you turn to the key to on and do it, it resets when you then start the car.

did this today to my rs4s 100% works couldnt believe the enjoyment haha... also another thing mine took more then 5 pumps of the brakes just keep doing it till 4WD symbol comes on flashing...

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

did this today to my rs4s 100% works couldnt believe the enjoyment haha... also another thing mine took more then 5 pumps of the brakes just keep doing it till 4WD symbol comes on flashing...

yeah thats what i do

unplug, start the car, pump the pedal till it flashes, then drive sensibly with no wheel spin at all ph34r.gif

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

It only require 5 pumps but because it's working off the brake light switch (I assume), if you don't take your foor all the way off the pedal it won't register the next pump.

I don't push the pedal all the way either, enough to make the brake lights flick on is all the pump you need.

  • 8 months later...
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

OK just ripped out the kick panel but couldn't find any such switch/plug. Pulled out a few random plugs (all with more than 1 wire) but no good.

Has anyone managed to do this on a Series 1 C34 and if so where did you find the plug and what were the colours?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

In my 260rs it is a 2 wire plug, i think one wire is green and the other is black, just guessing as im 4500km's away from my car

OK and you have a series 1 and it was behind the kick panel and it worked?

Thanks

Bob

Found it !!! small black plug fastened to a bigger loom - plug has single yellow wire with green trace socket has black wire!!!:cheers:

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Yep series one, yer wasn't exactly shure of the wire colors but that sounds right, did u test it out?

Yes as above. Can spin the rears now but all I really want it for is when I go to the drags (for the first time) so that I can at least warm up the rears - I am not sure I have enough power to light up all four with 255 wide tyres!

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