Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, couldn't find anything else really answering this question.

Just bought a front strut bar for my r33 skyline. I've heard a few things regarding the installation, and I have a few questions and concerns.

Firstly I was told to install, I should jack the car up and have the front in the air. My question for that is, if undo the bolts to hold the strut bar on, won't my suspension come out?

Secondly I was told the struts need to be sitting as close to 90 degrees as possible, how am I meant to even check or insure this? I would have thought having the car on the ground would have kept them closer to the right place?

Thirdly, some say it will and some say it won't affect my wheel alignment (mostly camber I presume). I really didn't want to fork out for another wheel alignment... But will do what must if it is required.

Advice, info, tips? Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/
Share on other sites

I can't see how the hell it would affect wheel alignment, I'd say that's a myth...

I'd recommend jacking the car up enough that the wheels are just touching the ground, but not putting any weight on the suspension - this way they don't fall out so to speak when you undo the nuts holding your struts in, but they're also not going to move about at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5580500
Share on other sites

Lol,

I'm pretty confident that all suspension bits should be tightened while the car is sitting on it's own weight. Nothing should be loaded except due to gravity, unless you want it to be.

You should not notice any changes in alignment.

And, if you do fit the brace when the car is sitting on the road, wheel alignment will not change.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5580526
Share on other sites

Yeah I think I'll do it with the car sitting flat on the ground, as if do it lifted it is more likely to create some degree of change, or possibly put un-necessary pressure?

At least this way I know it is set to how the car normally sits.

Next time I do get a balance and alignment done, I can ask them to check the settings of the strut bar and if necessary tighten it a bit when they have the car lifted, and then do all the alignment.

It would have only been the camber that changed.. But was told should lift the front to take any strain off the suspension for when doing the job. I'll give it a go when can once pick up the strut bar - hopefully this arvo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5580598
Share on other sites

as eiji and nathan said, its ment to be done with the the car on the ground.

Just remove the strut nuts, adjust the bar till it just slips over the top and then do the nuts back up.

you wont need an alignment and you be suprised wiht the difference in the front (at least i was, but thats in a bendy 31)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5580698
Share on other sites

Pedders where I got my whiteline bar from still insist it won't work unless I lift the front properly. So that all the stress and pressures are off the body, and to attach it and tighten it up properly before lowering the car back to the ground...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5580752
Share on other sites

Pedders where I got my whiteline bar from still insist it won't work unless I lift the front properly. So that all the stress and pressures are off the body, and to attach it and tighten it up properly before lowering the car back to the ground...

Lol @ Pedders!

Just undo the 4 nuts, stick strut bar on and do it up!

To be honest a strut bar does sweet fa on a skyline, you are better off with a caster rod brace imo.

Ive done track days both with an without the strut brace on the same suspension and didn't notice any difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5580767
Share on other sites

Strut bar - To preload or not to preload that is the questionSo. I had the oppertunity to drive my car without preloading and then preloading the strut bar. Story goes was trying to install my strut bar in my driveway with only basic hand tools and my cars own floor jack. jacked up one side and put my hand under the fender and slipped the bolts in and tightend them from the top. I can say after going for a test drive it made a real big difference.

After driving for awile i put the car on a lift today and then took off one end of the strut bar and it was dificult to pull off. Once off it wouldnt go back in easily being it was under tension while being installed. But not the kind you would want. I could actually turn one of the ends maybe 4 full turns. Reinserted it back and tightend the nuts up. Now the bar is under a slight tension. Put the car back down and went for a spin. All i can say is wow. I couldnt belive that it owuld make that much difference.

If you dont have acess to a rack easy way is just jack up the front of the car to relive the load off the strut towers when you install the strut bar. It is worth the extra effort.

It makes some sense, but I just keep getting advice both ways from people and places.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5580821
Share on other sites

I would think that lifting the car, letting the struts hang and then fitting the strut bar would cause the brace to undergo compression when it is returned to road height.

From my understanding the strut brace was to prevent the tops from spreading apart.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5580836
Share on other sites

As Eiji said its to stop the struts moving, so fit it when the car is on the ground stationary and they will be joined in that position.

If you lift it up and do it, putting the strut bar under compression, wont it be encouraged to lose its compression going over bumps?

Therefore moving the strut towers??????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5581774
Share on other sites

It makes a lot of sense to do it flat. Esp the if do it up, it gets some pressure on it, helping it move wrongly when go over bumps rather than keep it in the place of when the far is flat.

I'll keep looking for info, but I put it on with the car flat for now, but may need to check it again, as the ground was a little slopey on my drive so it might not be 100% right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346654-front-strut-bar/#findComment-5581856
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...