Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I took the race car back to the workshop because the turbos were blown - noisey whistle as they spooled up.

Turbos showed evidence of oil starvation so I got an oil analysis done. results below.

This is on a 7 day old production race motor.

oil1.jpg

oil2.jpg

oil3.jpg

The main thing I understand is the smiley face.

Also interested to hear from anyone who does regular oil analysis as part of a preventative schedule

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It does have a sad smiley. And I think 94x the acceptable level of bearing material might be a sign too.

No I have never used the redline oil before. Interesting that their analysis shows it is outside the expected range for 15w50 at 100oC. Whatever the expected range is at 100oC

I wonder why there is a shit load of lead in the oil?

Unless you are doing the sneaky sneaky and running Sunoco MaxNos lol

Is this the same block you have always been using? or is it a different block to the others you have killed?

Shit, that's not a bad price for the oil analysis, I would have thought it would be more. I wouldn't mind doing one with the new Dimple sump plug.

Also, where can I get my hands on your engine: RB2BPETT lol

lol at strange engine number. not sure what the P stands for either.

I assume copper and lead make up tri metal ACL bearings. that is why i was wondering who knows how to read/explain these things.

The block is a virgin in my use, although it was second hand and machined including 0.5mm overbore before this use.

not good duncan. I'll point Dan to this thread as he does all of my oil analysis and has had some in depth discussions with the oil test guys, but i think you have already in the nail on the head with the copper/lead being the different layers of the bearings.

The change in oil viscocity could be due to fuel dilution. 7.2% is quite high (i think mine is around 3.5-4%) and would have a significant impact on the viscocity of the oil.

p.s. we use WearCheck for our oil analysis, and i think they are a bit cheaper than that ($40 or less a pop if memory serves)

Edited by Strik3r

yeah I found that interesting too. 2x the acceptable level of fuel. petrol is not a good lubricant.

zeb, it is an entirely new bottom end, head was machined and re-used from an old motor, not the last one. unlikely (but never impossible) that it is related to a single bad part.

what about the clutch/flywheel or gearbox input shaft?

Something must be causing the crank to not move the way it should, not saying this engine is dead as I can understand bearing material wiping off in the 1st few hours of engine start.

But the fact that it keeps picking up bearings tells me that there is something not quite right.

indeed. new clutch and flywheel on this motor. same gearbox for years but new spigot bush, and they are all outside the sump anyway. FWIW also new harmonic balancer on this motor

Well I would say once the turbos go back on, give it a good run with new oil and test the oil again, fingers crossed it doesnt run a bearing in the mean time.

Oh btw did you find out what was causing the over heating on the last motor?

I'm thinking that the dead turbos maybe caused by the same thing? maybe the turbo oil and water lines are a bit blocked?

Oh and what i meant by the gearbox, is that the input shaft is not gun barrel straight it may be causing the back of the crank to move up and down.

Its a long shot, but may be possible

LOL I feel like I'm on myth Busters.

yeah but that would cause big spigot wear first right

overheating on the last motor was due to coolant loss (ie pressure test would have found the problem, but I never did one). eventually it did a head gasket from overheating which is fair enough.

BTW I don't want to give the impression I have had lots of spun bearing motors. I have had a few but reasons for each (oil system mistake, bearing clearance mistake and original factory motor). Also killed one with a dying fuel pump causing pinging. Killed 2 from overheating (both dead head gaskets - the one above and one because the radiator was too short for factory mounts).

The real question is - what does this analysis tell me other than the obvious (ie bearings are f**ked). No chance I am running the motor without tearing it down.

Easy one, dirty build mate.

See the iron content, thats your engine hone floating around in your oil. Id also go as far to say the cross block oil feed was partially blocked by bearing material from its previous life (engine that spun bearing) this also crosses with the evidence.

Id be keen to see the bearing wear especially the mains close to the centre of the block (3,4,5).

The fuel levels are also a concern, does whoever tune this thing want the rings to never bed in properly?

Edited by Supa Steve

Ah yeah fair enough, I was there at OP when the head gasket went...you should remember you forgot my seat! lol

I thought you had a few more die than that, that were un-explained, but if you know the causes than Ima shut up lol

thanks supa steve. BTW I am not sure of the previous life of this particular block, it may or may not have had a spun bearing before. I got it second hand and machined it.

oilcheck site suggests alumnium and silica are signs of dirt, mine are both outside normal but not flagged as critical like the bearing indicators. not arguing, just trying to learn....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...