Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trent i dont, i didnt feel comfortable asking you for any more help as i understand your a buisness. Im assuming cause i dont have the software that i probly cant do this myself? Im more than happy to send the power FC to you and pay you if you are willing to help out? also if you could leave the basic rb26 map in it for me? as it currently has a tune for 260kw for a big single and 720cc injectors. the 26 going in will be stock for 6 months or so. Pm me if you can help out so we can sort out some payment. Wish i was closer to you id just drop the bloody car off to you and be done with it.

if its going back to stock a simple DATA INIT will load the default maps, AFM ramps and all the settings

obviously you will loose your current tune if you do this, but thats the sure fire way

or do you just need to revert to stock AFM ramps and keep everything else modified as-is?

its a 5 minute task in datlaogit to load the stock AFM ramps

Have a look in the folder that you installed FC Edit universal and you will see there is a bunch of maps that get installed with it. There is an R34 GTR RB26 v8.0 something map there as well. You can use the software to open the map offline and get the data that you need that way. All the GTR maf sensors have the same scale so using the R34 map for reference will be fine.

Edited by GTRNUR
  • Like 2

Trent i dont, i didnt feel comfortable asking you for any more help as i understand your a buisness. Im assuming cause i dont have the software that i probly cant do this myself? Im more than happy to send the power FC to you and pay you if you are willing to help out? also if you could leave the basic rb26 map in it for me? as it currently has a tune for 260kw for a big single and 720cc injectors. the 26 going in will be stock for 6 months or so. Pm me if you can help out so we can sort out some payment. Wish i was closer to you id just drop the bloody car off to you and be done with it.

where are yo located?

i only ask as i am in and out atm. It would take 5mins to make something up map wise and would be happy to do it. how soon could you get it to me?

Have a look in the folder that you installed FC Edit universal and you will see there is a bunch of maps that get installed with it. There is an R34 GTR RB26 v8.0 something map there as well. You can use the software to open the map offline and get the data that you need that way. All the GTR maf sensors have the same scale so using the R34 map for reference will be fine.

the fc datalogit base map for the rb26 is based on what octane fuel?

Loading the base map still isnt goin to be ideal. Needs to have a decent tune in it.

+1

The base maps are enough to get your sensor calibrations correct and to drive off boost, but you certainly couldnt drive it on boost.

One other thought... If your going to use twin GTR maf sensors on an ecu with only one MAF sensor input you are going to have a tune stability issue. There is always some difference between the output voltages of both sensors.

The GTR ecu uses a mathmatical calculation that adds the two voltages (maf sensor values) together to work out the actual airflow. You can not do this with the RB20 pfc so the active load point will be off on occasion by at least 1-2 load cells.

Tieing the two maf output signals together will not work. Their values must be read independantly and then processed. Your only option will be to use a single maf sensor, and have a single air input path to the engine.

Edited by GTRNUR
  • Like 1

i was always planning to run the standard ecu, i just read something trent posted that i thought opened my options up a bit. if that much of a problem i will just run the stock ecu.

I was always planning to have it tuned after the power fc install. just assumed it wouldnt run with rb20 tune it... thus asking for the stock 26 map

Tieing the two maf output signals together will not work. Their values must be read independantly and then processed. Your only option will be to use a single maf sensor, and have a single air input path to the engine.

ive dioded them up in the past on 1 car, not ideal but from a tune and driveability perspective you would never know. maybe i got lucky but as long as the afm curve is smooth it should be ok.

other option is to run one z32 in the cooler pipe.

Cheers guys. I knew something was different about the 34R PFC, just couldn't quite remember what haha.

Also, worth paying that little bit extra for the new PFC and EL hand controller? Will that fix the missfire that the 32Rs get with the PFC?

and the physical loom plug is different, so even if you decide to be super crazy and pin swap, the physical plugs are different

nah they are the same.

PFC negates nats

and cas wires need swapping.

EL Hand controller is the best marketing rort since since Y2k compliant calculators..... i hate them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...