Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah I like the RSR too. have admittedly only used them once. but i was really surprised buy the dunlop Z1*. I currently have AD07s on one car, Ad08s on another (both GTRs), RT615s on another and the Z1* on the evo and I reckon of those four the Z1* is the better tyre. their UTQG is a bit higher than others but remember UTQG is not an outright indication of grip or compound. it's simply a treadwear rating. so it tells you about how long the tyre lasts. yes generally a lower number means a softer more grippy tyre but don't get too hung up on it as a pure indication of grip as that's not what it is.

That Dunlop has been tested in Tassie by a circuit racer, and he found them to be only about 1sec a lap slower than Medium DZ03's. He said it was only initial turn in where they didn't match proper R's

That Dunlop has been tested in Tassie by a circuit racer, and he found them to be only about 1sec a lap slower than Medium DZ03's. He said it was only initial turn in where they didn't match proper R's

cheers for that sav-man. I would have guessed that to be about right. they are amazing for a road tyre. I'm going to put them on all my road cars from now on I think.

yeah fk me dead tyre rack is cheap. give me a reach around and i'll buy you a set too! no way would I go back to ku36 and in fact I reckon the Z1* against an R888 would be interesting. on light cars the R888 might have the edge but we know they suffer on heavy stuff where as the Z1* seem to be good as gold. i rate 'em.

lol high roller... It's called tirerack.com :P

have bought from them before? approx how much is shipping to Aus? (I tried to get shipping quote but it wanted ZIP code)

my KU36 are almost dead so might try the Z1... I mean if Baron rates them how can I say no :kiss:

I've not, but most of my close mates have recently. Around 300-400 USD delivered for shipping.

So for instance you can get AD08s here for like 1400-1500 landed (265/18s). Depending if you get tax stung, and exchange rate etc.

You'll be paying 2200-2400 IIRC locally. It's a no brainer. Bridgestones you save even more on as markup here is offensive.

Not worth it for cheap tyresm but expensive road tyres/semi comps, cannot be beaten.

Infact semis (048s) and the hi-perf street AD08s are basically the same price delivered lol :D

I've not, but most of my close mates have recently. Around 300-400 USD delivered for shipping.

So for instance you can get AD08s here for like 1400-1500 landed (265/18s). Depending if you get tax stung, and exchange rate etc.

You'll be paying 2200-2400 IIRC locally. It's a no brainer. Bridgestones you save even more on as markup here is offensive.

Not worth it for cheap tyresm but expensive road tyres/semi comps, cannot be beaten.

Infact semis (048s) and the hi-perf street AD08s are basically the same price delivered lol :D

cheers, just found the tirerack thread... I've got a few months left on the KU36 but might get Z1 now while exchange rate is good

How do they compare noise-wise?

pretty good. the big difference i noticed on street vs semis (A050, A048 etc) is that the Z1s don't tramline like the semi's do. real semis on the street on poor roads tramline so badly they just about rip the wheel from your hand at times. The z1's obviously a bit more noisy than comfort spec road tyres but still very liveable unlike semi's.

but yeah from tirerack they are cheap cheap.

How do you guys go getting tyres in from OS ?

Aren't customs super keen on fumigation if they don't come on wheels or something ?

What's the go ?

Mate of mine is interested in some Semi's for his race car.

If they're new you shouldn't have any issues with customs.

pretty good. the big difference i noticed on street vs semis (A050, A048 etc) is that the Z1s don't tramline like the semi's do. real semis on the street on poor roads tramline so badly they just about rip the wheel from your hand at times. The z1's obviously a bit more noisy than comfort spec road tyres but still very liveable unlike semi's.

but yeah from tirerack they are cheap cheap.

On sydney roads it would be even worse! :P

speaking of tyres,

Yokohama are telling me the latest size A050 semi slick that would have been good for my car (295/35-18) is not available as the mold for this size (and a few others?) was damaged with the earthquake.

biggest semis other than the bridgestones are 295/30-18 (hankook vetnis Z221 and A050's), that diameter is about 80mm less than the standard wheel size on my car.

I wish there were some bigger smei slick options so we could match it with the EVO's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...