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My 2c worth on the plenum is that Nissan would do a better job than just some low cost manufacturer. No one has really noted overly impressive results for changing to forward facing plenums not have they for going to the GTR ITB's...

Be it myself I would retain the factory plenum at all costs. Plumbing is longer but what harm can a little more cold side volume do? Hinder spool but probably net you better torque, while the longer runners of the factory plenum are also going to work towards getting you spool AND more torque. All in all more torque more torque more torque, its a losing battle and you already have the thing setup right.. Leave it be and put your money into a good set of cams and those valve springs. When E85 rolls out in full I would recommend you take that up too.

Who knows, maybe I will ditch my fight for spool and join you all at 350+rwkw, these turbos seem the GOODS.

Scott 350 at the bags is better than stock response imo. My 33 made peak torque at 3000 rpm with a high flow and around 220kw but it felt slow. Felt nice on the track but that's all it had. Felt nice but was slow. Made a nice street car but still how many times are you at WOT on the street. I guess it does depend on what you want to do. Me these days would rather have to have a few more rom on board and be pinned in the over driving the whole time in 4th gear

This post makes Bo sense but I'm on my phone so cbf

Yeh I was very close to going the TD06SL2.. In the end i decided to try the T67 first and if its too laggy the TD06SL2 will bolt on easy enough...

After taking mine to the track I can honestly say that it's not going to be too laggy!

Also worth noting that the TD06SL2 has oil/water lines but T67 only has oil :)

Edited by SimonR32

Zeb Im honestly trying to get my car track worthy as quickly as possible with what Ive already got.. My JZ came with a Mines rom (suit stock setup) and Im counting on the blessing of the map sensor to be flexible enough up to my injectors limits.

If Kando would hurry up with this rumoured IW T3 8cm 20g I would be pretty happy.... But for now I cannot be bothered exploring the world of external gate for nothing. I would rather cut off my flange and refix a T2 item so I can get an off the shelf garrett 2871 52t and achieve the fabled HKS GTRS results for a pitence.

Realistically I cant be stuffed buying injectors and doing a tuned ecu plus external gate setup for SFA more speed in the forums I will entertain and the cost in the range of an additional 3k... Im pretty sure I can get the car to go as fast as I want it to with under 250rwkw. I have seen EK civics with ordinary B18 swaps lap Wakefield in 1.06s, sub 100kw N14 pulsars doing it in 1.10s etc.. I dont need 350rwkw, but yeah it would be nice. I calculate I need about 180rwkw/t and a good powerband.

I see your point about your old setup.. But my last car being an Evo has made it endlessly difficult to give up the game lol

Zeb Im honestly trying to get my car track worthy as quickly as possible with what Ive already got.. My JZ came with a Mines rom (suit stock setup) and Im counting on the blessing of the map sensor to be flexible enough up to my injectors limits.

If Kando would hurry up with this rumoured IW T3 8cm 20g I would be pretty happy.... But for now I cannot be bothered exploring the world of external gate for nothing. I would rather cut off my flange and refix a T2 item so I can get an off the shelf garrett 2871 52t and achieve the fabled HKS GTRS results for a pitence.

Realistically I cant be stuffed buying injectors and doing a tuned ecu plus external gate setup for SFA more speed in the forums I will entertain and the cost in the range of an additional 3k... Im pretty sure I can get the car to go as fast as I want it to with under 250rwkw. I have seen EK civics with ordinary B18 swaps lap Wakefield in 1.06s, sub 100kw N14 pulsars doing it in 1.10s etc.. I dont need 350rwkw, but yeah it would be nice. I calculate I need about 180rwkw/t and a good powerband.

I see your point about your old setup.. But my last car being an Evo has made it endlessly difficult to give up the game lol

Map Sensor is good for 14psi and thats it...people fit 2JZ 3 bar sensors but it throws the tune (dont listen to anything you see on Soarer forums, they also stick 2J 440cc injectors into the 1J using a stock ecu...then wonder why they only get 200ks to a tank lol)

I honestly think you should give the stock twins a run (at 13-14psi) before you rip them all off, My fat Soarer holds its own running 8psi and standard dump/front pipe

A stripped 33 will be a sheet load lighter. and with around 220-230rwkws (not to mention its free because you already have the gear) it should haul ass

A friend has a blitz rom and is running 17psi, so the 14psi limit is just the stock ECU doing its thing (im fairly sure). My mines ECU should be mapped beyond 14psi.

Man I really dont have the patience for the stock twins lol... I want them off and I want a good internal gate single on there from word go.... F*k that for a joke lol.

A friend has a blitz rom and is running 17psi, so the 14psi limit is just the stock ECU doing its thing (im fairly sure). My mines ECU should be mapped beyond 14psi.

Man I really dont have the patience for the stock twins lol... I want them off and I want a good internal gate single on there from word go.... F*k that for a joke lol.

Its only a 2bar sensor so It would be running past its limits...but thats nof different to tuning past an AFM limit

There are some faily good steel wheel CT26 turbos getting around that would go near your goals if you dont end up going the 2871

What did you do for the oil drain OMY31T? i got a braided line about 500mm long, a straight fitting out of the block then under the AC hose and up into the turbo... not really happy with it but there's not alot of room.

... im running the stuff that came with it for the oil drain??? i left the stock adaptor in the block and used the hose that came it and the 45 degree out of the turbo, i didnt see it necessary to have a braided oil drain.

if i run into problems, then i will look at changing it. atm im waiting to see how my external gate performs. it was a pretty cheap setup from the US, but its all billet aluminium, so im hoping it all works ok, it definatly seals properly, thats for sure.

i just wish my BOV would hurry up and arrive so i can go get the thing on the dyno. lol.

btw for those interested in doing this with a stock plenum, its a real pain in the ass to do the intercooler pipe with a highmount, the pipe i used was a kit, i bought it used, and had to shorten and add an extra join under the drivers side, and the pipe just touches the bonnet. i also now have a S2 carbon fibre bonnet im going to sell because it wont fit with the intercooler pipe, it hits the main vent. shame because its a Stout type R which there isnt many of in aus.

Ok, this one has left me a little bit lost...

It appears to be a genuine Garrett 3037 which is the same as a 3076R(?!?) with a Kando 10cm rear housing... So right in between a 0.63 response and 0.84 power?

AND it's bloody cheap for what it is... Who is game?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Garrett-GT30R-GT3037-AR60-AR73-V-Band-/270730059235?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f08c4dde3#ht_1991wt_1139

Ok, this one has left me a little bit lost...

It appears to be a genuine Garrett 3037 which is the same as a 3076R(?!?) with a Kando 10cm rear housing... So right in between a 0.63 response and 0.84 power?

AND it's bloody cheap for what it is... Who is game?

http://cgi.ebay.com....#ht_1991wt_1139

what a/r would the 10cm rear wheel make it?

damn, i wish that was there before i bought my T67.... that could be one hell of an interesting turbo to play with.

bov came today, so im getting close to getting mine tuned, some new oil and plugs, and i also need to mod my fuel pump to the straight 12v off the battery. it was already in the car when i bought it. pulled it out, its a walbro 255lt/h, but only hooked up to the stock 11v wiring, which makes the pump not run at full capacity im to believe, as they can run 13.3v. so ill rewire the fuel pump this week, do an oil change and some plugs, and send it off to be tuned next week.

Yeh I'd like to try that thing over the t67 too lol still it is $500 more...

As for the fuel pump mod I don't think its as relevant with r33's as the battery is so close to the pump making the voltage drop minimal....

I have a Bosch 040 in mine but I'm gonna swap it out for an 044 cause it's pretty likely I'll be running e85.

Yeh I'd like to try that thing over the t67 too lol still it is $500 more...

I would keep my $500 and T67 :) Tiny bit more lag for lots better top end wins for me!

Still would be interesting to see how it was response wise, probably a better than mine and maybe a genuine Garrett 0.84 rear one

Was talking to the guy who tunes my car the other day (Sean from Allstar) and he is going a very similar set up to mine but has a 3076R lying around that he is going to use, he mentioned that no matter what mods they have done he has never seen a 3076R turbo set up can hold and keep raising power till at least 8100rpm like mine.

He is going to try by running silly boost on his car to try and make more power than mine, good luck I say :)

Edited by SimonR32

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