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both style.

But I think Kando can only do 8cm TD06/T67 housings in the Mitsu/Trust 3 bolt housing. They couldnt do me a TD05 housing or TD06H Trust style housing. That was 6 months ago so maybe doing them now?!?!?!?!

30% extra air flow should make quite a big power difference maybe even some more response u going to try one simonR32 ill be keen after seeing some results ??

I have been looking into this a fair but and its so hard to get reliable information. From what I can see there is the usual common sources of suppliers. I understand the FP ones are unique, and the BBK ones are unique. There are several other US places doing billet wheels and talk on US forums is that they dont get the response/improvements that the FP wheels get...and it appears they are a common supply. Ditto the BBK wheels which on US forums seem to have them a little behind the FP wheel.

I think I am going to try the 18G then hi-flow it with a 68HTA wheel and see how it looks. If I can get something that hammers on the RB20 then it will be a good thing on the RB24 :)Anywhere around 270-300rwkws is nice. More then anything I want 250rwkws from 4,750rpm

The talk on the 73HTA vs 20G is a genuine increase of 15% in power for same response...on some setups a tad better transient response. So if simply throwing a billet wheel at my 20G has me going fr0m 270rwkws to 305-310rwkws on 98 then I will be the happiest guy in the country. If that goes to plan I will be in all you T67 guys ear to try the 76HTA

I would love to know for real if there really is any difference between the Blouch, CBRD, Forced performance compressors etc. It seems to me the biggest variable is the turbines. Some run GT30 turbines, others cropped Mitsubishi turbines. There is probably a lot of hit and miss with the wheel cropping versions

30% lighter is great, not sure about the 30% extra airflow. Its got the same trim and diameter as the standard part. Not sure how that could flow 30% extra. If it can be spun faster to produce more flow that's one thing, but, whether or not a gain can be had really depends on the compressor map- which we don't have.

30% extra air flow should make quite a big power difference maybe even some more response u going to try one simonR32 ill be keen after seeing some results ??

Seems most of the talk is around the shank of the turbo. The billets being thinner so you actually get more surface area of blade . Well at least thats what the CBRD crowd really emphasise

You can see a small difference in the pics for the adverts

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-7075-AL-T67-25G-TD07S-25G-Extra-30-airflow-/270897143127?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f12ba5d57#ht_2045wt_1270

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-Mistubishi-T67-TD06SH-TD07S-25G-/290657757814?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac8d6a76#ht_2173wt_1270

LOL, more then anything all I want is one of those pretty billet nuts that go on the comrpessor :)

Yes well im purchasing the t67 this week just wondering weather its worth going the billet or just staying how it is. Really interested to see back to back dyno results, I just dont want to be the one to do it as i dont have the cash

I dont think it will be any worse, potentially better but your talking about a lot of supporting mod.......................

Im sure for them to say 30% more flow that is what it did per RPM on a test bench. Real world application is what could differ. Stao has already done this, while the compressor could flow more I dont think he could easily access it without other revisions... 200 page read to find out too lol

Scott it's hard to keep up, but your post earlier today suggested that the flow increase was related to the round inlet/ 3 bolt style turbine inlet. And that was the direction/purpose of my enquiry.

Then things moved along seamlessly with comments about extra flow capacity related to bigger/different billet compressors.

So what gives? Consensus or hard information about whether Mitsu-style 3 bolt inlet is a good thing?

Who knows? Tial seem to think that if they are going to go to the trouble of making housings for Garrets that they do v-band round rather then square. But then EFR range which are meant to be all things in turbo design are square...but then the TR30R is round....so who knows. Doubt it makes a poofteenths difference in the real world when running on a car. I suppose in theory you can have the same A/R and flow with less friction losses against internal wall of housings.

Yes I did think it should offer a theoretical advantage, hence the question.

The Tial V band inlet/outlet fastening method is very attractive to me from an ease of servicing/installation viewpoint.

A mate who runs an Evo gravel rally car (with anti-lag) has experienced a lot of trouble with the 3-bolt flange nuts coming loose in just one stage (so as little as 20km of competitive driving). Extreme heat cycling partly to blame, but it was fixed by sourcing flash Ralliart spec nuts and conical spring (belleville) washers. Cost to regular plebs like us would be 4.50 per washer (need 2 per stud), and 21.50 per nut... Madness but that's what it takes to keep the bastards tight.

Slight deviation, but makes me wonder if the 3 bolt spec is more prone to having the flange nuts loosening themselves?

Scott it's hard to keep up, but your post earlier today suggested that the flow increase was related to the round inlet/ 3 bolt style turbine inlet. And that was the direction/purpose of my enquiry.

Then things moved along seamlessly with comments about extra flow capacity related to bigger/different billet compressors.

So what gives? Consensus or hard information about whether Mitsu-style 3 bolt inlet is a good thing?

LOL Sorry mate, was distracted by the tennis..

Two different topics. One guy posted he heard the 3 bolt housings work better, to which I agree that I have read 30% better. Then Simon showed a billet 25G wheel which also states 30% more flow..... Which my hypergear related comment was aimed at.

Sorry to have been confusing and probably posting too often, let me know if that clears it up.

I was running Grade 8 bolts and they were typically shagged after a track day. Next week of driving would have small exhaust leaks which I could nip up but were a pain in the ass. The original Trust studs were tops...but when my car went to a workshop for some work all the studs were repalced with bolts and hence the problems started.

Majority of turbo suppliers do them. I got mine from a place in Melb but pretty sure GCG and others all do them. You can easily get them on line from US and if you are like me and never have any time to go buy stuff from actual places so want to buy online

30% lighter is great, not sure about the 30% extra airflow. Its got the same trim and diameter as the standard part. Not sure how that could flow 30% extra. If it can be spun faster to produce more flow that's one thing, but, whether or not a gain can be had really depends on the compressor map- which we don't have.

30% lighter is great... As others have said the extra flow comes from the shank being smaller and not the actual blade diameters.

BUT if there is 30% extra airflow that is going to cause less boost response and more lag for sure. What people forget to think about when looking at flow sizes is no matter how heavy the compressor wheel is, that weight is going to be nothing compared with the force required to push the extra volume of air.

I want to give the billet wheel a go, but I will need some convincing that the redesigned compressor wheel is going to be better :)

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