Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dsc05822q.jpg

This is the kinda core I'm using lads. I get where your coming from Scott. I guess I need to decide whether I want the car to look stock and have average power, or put in a conventional cooler kit and gain the missing power I should have, if thats the problem.

Hey i just tested one of these and it had a 6psi drop across it (20-30kw loss), have you tested boost before and after the cooler. Who is it from? the supplier was great and swapped it for another style.

thats why i keep saying spin it around backwards so compressor faces down not up..not sure how much room this will get you though it sure to be a good 10mm or so.. who wants a t67 on a stock manifold anyway thoug you might as well just get a td06...the extra power a t67 has to offer is only being wasted on the stock manifold..

there is always low mount options from 6-boost and such but whats the point in them, it just makes your turbo hard to work on...unless you can get a hks cast manifold that might work ok..

thats why i keep saying spin it around backwards so compressor faces down not up..not sure how much room this will get you though it sure to be a good 10mm or so.. who wants a t67 on a stock manifold anyway thoug you might as well just get a td06...the extra power a t67 has to offer is only being wasted on the stock manifold..

there is always low mount options from 6-boost and such but whats the point in them, it just makes your turbo hard to work on...unless you can get a hks cast manifold that might work ok..

EXACTLY TIMES TEN.

Hey i just tested one of these and it had a 6psi drop across it (20-30kw loss), have you tested boost before and after the cooler. Who is it from? the supplier was great and swapped it for another style.

They did some testing before on my first kando and it had a 2psi drop on low boost (I think under 10psi?) so I'd take it as the boost increases the drop will become worse.

I got it off CJauto I think off ebay, can't remember. I found myself a HKS return flow setup to replace it so hopefully I get that extra 20-30kw ... the Stagea needs it lol.

well i ran the 3582r low mounted with 10mm spacer, had heaps of room, now have t67 high mounted and i couldnt tell the difference in comp cover sizes both .70... either way run 15mm or bigger spacer. u still have a shit load of room 4 clearance underneth, u have 2 grind of a few heat shield lugs thats about it..

With my TD05-18G, had to use a 10mm spacer vs my old TD06-20G (no spacer), but thats because a TD05 exhaust housing is smaller so it brings the compressor housing closer to the exhaust manifold.

really...my td06 theres no way it would go on without a 10mm spacer...rb25 manifolds different maybe

With my TD05-18G, had to use a 10mm spacer vs my old TD06-20G (no spacer), but thats because a TD05 exhaust housing is smaller so it brings the compressor housing closer to the exhaust manifold.

interesting my td05-18g bolted straight on.

Mind you, my TD06 was the old (shitty) internal gate version. TD05 (external set up) was fouling the compressor housing on the exhaust manifold but about 2-3mm.

Status, what sort of clearance did you have with the TD05 bolted on interms of compressor to manifold?

Yeah his old TD06 was the 3 bolt internal gate type, the shoddy one we all steer clear of.

So now hes on par with everyone else, using a normal T3 Vband housing and the 3" comp cover. Thus using a 10mm spacer like the rest.


Kane how does the TD05H go compared to the old TD06H? Happy with the change?

Correct Scott.

Umm I seem to acheive full boost around 4200-4400 RPM, full boost being 22psi. So definately not as laggy as the old turbo. Very happy thus far. Will post dyno results once a Z32 has been added as the standard AFM is maxing out around 16-17psi..

Awesome dude, sounding really promising.

Maybe grab some cam gears while your on the job? Bring full song closer to the 4k mark, which for an RB20 making reasonable power is a good result :)

I'm sure it also feels a hell of a lot punchier once your moving too, and squirting it in and out of corners. Am anticipating 240kw, let us know how you fare!

haha you just reminded me of whats in my "draw of goodies"... JJR Cam Gears. Will get them and the Z32 in and tuned.

I would be happy with anything over 240 @ 22psi..

Definitely is more punchy, but haven't been able to give it abit of a squirt due to laziness lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...