Jump to content
SAU Community

Da Bitch Is Back


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

great to hear denham I have been watching the progress the set up looks great and the final result is awsome to saythe least.

my cefiro goes in there next week for the sr swap and the turbo up grade.

cant wait tio get it back but I'm soft only looking for around 220 rwkw for now

now at least you can justify the rice:D

cheers

nice work dude. I know how long the car has been in at ICE. must feel great to plant the foot and actually go somewhere. With all the problems sorted, should be an absolute weapon.....and an inspiration to other 33 owners looking for the same power.

Yes the wait has been worth it!

Picked up a set of GTR BOV's off a 97 GTR yesterday so that will go on this week and then i gotta use another z32 afm to check wtf the stalling problem is.

I am looking for a HKS EVC 3 or 4 also, so if anyone knows someone that is selling please let me know.

Nahh - not true at all... My turbo's a low mount! :D

matt

All i will say ash is GOOD LUCK getting it to fit low mount without it either rubbing the engine or the engine bay. I had to use brackets to move the power steering bottle forward and a whole bunch of wiring on the passengers side had to be moved otherwise it will melt if it gets near the exhaust housing.

I gotta get an exhaust blanket for the exhaust housing also coz it blows back a bit of heat into the cabbin at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...