Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No, if the car has already been imported and an import approval issued for this chassis number, it remains the same even if you export it to NZ and then bring it back. Say you bring this in as a race/rally import then suddenly there's a compliance plate for it so you send it over to NZ or Japan even then bring it back...no that doesn't work. Call DoTaRS to verify my little piece of info

Heya Kristian, if you can get the car here in one piece for that amount I'm very interested. I don;t have a cams level 3 license to be able to import the car as a race car myself, but if you can arrange it, I can arrange the cash :rofl:

Kristian,

Not having a shot at you or your business by any stretch but were you seriously intending to import this car and perhaps take a deposit/full payment from someone without even checking to see if compliance plates are available for 99 TT RZ's?

Isn't that the first thing you'd check / already know being in the business?

Adrian

Compliance plates are available for 1999 Supras in Melbourne.

I only just found out that THIS car was not able to be complied when I went to purchase the compliance plates.

You might also like to know that I took paymentof $26,000 for this car last week, and when we found out it could not be complied, we gave back a FULL refund.

Japanese Import Parts provides 100% refunds when the customer does not get what they pay for.

You might like to consider a PM next time to check all the facts before you assume and post up in the thread.

You might like to consider a PM next time to check all the facts before you assume and post up in the thread.

Didn't assume a single thing. Thought that was obvious by the questions I asked and the fact that I started the post with, "Not having a shot at you or your business by any stretch." I am very pleased to see that an SAU advertising business such as Japanese Import Parts is a responsible, law-abiding company. It is a pleasure to know that a company associated with SAU refunded the $26k as you were obliged to.

Have a great day :spank:

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...