Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 9.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

your top speed must be awesome in that thing!!!! :P

Good figure bud....well done!.....I still would have thought you would crack the 300AWKW's though!....what PSI?

sorry i was wrong it was 285kw at the wheels lol

yeh it will crack much more, it was only tuned on ethanol because of the boost problem. -which is not so much of a problem anymore.

its pretty much tuned in 98, but on e85 for safety.

its at 20psi as the wastegate hole is a wee bit too small lol

feels f**king insane

look at the dyno results topic

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

sorry i was wrong it was 285kw at the wheels lol

yeh it will crack much more, it was only tuned on ethanol because of the boost problem. -which is not so much of a problem anymore.

its pretty much tuned in 98, but on e85 for safety.

its at 20psi as the wastegate hole is a wee bit too small lol

feels f**king insane

look at the dyno results topic

Was the only difference between tunes your exhaust?

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

That's a neat install guys. I'm impressed. I didn't realise the unit was that small. No probs with fitting it in there at all by the looks.

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

That's a neat install guys. I'm impressed. I didn't realise the unit was that small. No probs with fitting it in there at all by the looks.

A little bit of chopping on the cradles for the ETC reader to sit it in and mounted the solenoid in the battery box so very stealth.

Also had to make a small hole in the glove box cover to stop the dial hitting the lid. Turns out there is more room if you mount it a little higher.. lol

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted (edited)

A little bit of chopping on the cradles for the ETC reader to sit it in and mounted the solenoid in the battery box so very stealth.

Also had to make a small hole in the glove box cover to stop the dial hitting the lid. Turns out there is more room if you mount it a little higher.. lol

Solenoid in battery box. I must remember that - thanks, I like it!

Yes, the inside shape of that compartment varies considerably in profile.

What did you use to cut out the shape?

Edited by Commsman
andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Solenoid in battery box. I must remember that - thanks, I like it!

Yes, the inside shape of that compartment varies considerably in profile.

What did you use to cut out the shape?

I just measured the shape and cut by hand with a drill and scalpel. A bit of evening whittling. lol

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Not to get too offtopic, but any idea why they hate them? Id be looking at going the Profec B II route

people feel that they're fiddly things, when adjusting gains and etc.

but everything that comes out of japan is fiddly. lol people should deal with it.

Yeah mostly I think it is people not reading the manual and/or taking the time to set them up properly. It's not quite as simple as "I WANT 20psi, K.. GO!"

Also, some think they can't handle huge boost and prefer to go for the Blitz dual solenoid units. The theory there is that the dual solenoids can handle fast ramping, huge boost setups better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...