Jump to content
SAU Community

How Do You Replace The Front Bulbs On An M35 Stagea?

samuri

By samuri,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

samuri Rising Star

samuri

Posted
Posted (edited)

What is the procedure to re-install xenon bulbs on an M35 stagea 2002 series 1, which were remove during compliance for normal bulbs.

Somebody told me I have to remove the wheel guard ( inner guard)and come up from underneath.Is it a cramped fiddly job or is it straight forward?

Arent these lights brighter and therefore safer at night?Why were they fitted from the factory in japan but not allowed in Australia?whats the big deal for Australian authorities?

Edited by samuri
zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

they are removed because there are no automatic height adjustments, and no washers for the headlight units.

anyway, if the ballasts have been removed, youll need to buy new ballasts and burners. if the factory ballasts and wiring is still there, you can just put in new burners.

you need to have a look at them to see what has and hasnt been removed

samuri Rising Star

samuri

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

they are removed because there are no automatic height adjustments, and no washers for the headlight units.

anyway, if the ballasts have been removed, youll need to buy new ballasts and burners. if the factory ballasts and wiring is still there, you can just put in new burners.

you need to have a look at them to see what has and hasn't been removed

Thanks zei201.

Only bulbs have been removed.Why are automatic height adjustments, and washers for the headlight units so important,yet the requirement isn't met for Japanese roads.

Obviously on coming glare for other cars is the issue , but surely it would be an issue for Japanese drives as well.

I am curious. why are washers necessary as most cars seen to get by without them.By burners do you mean bulbs?

Edited by samuri
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

ah one of the many silly ADR's... just like mirrors, fuel fillers etc etc...

It seems Australia knows best for everything, and the rest of the world are wrong with everything.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's actually, quite funny hearing about vehicle manufacturers refusing to provide cars for ADR crash testing (BMW, Audi, Mercedes) because European standards far exceed our own. I think they just like being unnecessarily officious. That, and they like smashing up other peoples shit...

You will sadly never see a road registered Veyron in Australia because ADR's required TWO vehicles for the authority to completely destroy! At $1.5 mill a POP, they were politely invited to go f##k themselves...

Edited by Daleo
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Curiously, I once saw a road registered McLaren F1 driving in Sydney, passed me...quick. One of those things you don't forget in a lifetime!:wub:

I wouldn't have the slightest clue whose it was, how it got here/was registered etc etc. But I don't think 2 of them got smashed! I do see some NZ megacars (Rolls etc) get around, still with kiwi plates on- maybe there is some kind of strange rule about that?

Anyways, back on topic to please Chuckie... Do a search, I swear someone asked the same question. Isn't it either the through the wheel arch/plastic or remove the air box method? Would it be easyier of you removed the Front bar? someone said thats about a 5min job

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

some cars can be brought in as personal imports and arent subject to RAWS or something like that.

but you have to have owned the car in another country for at least 12 months blah blah

anyway, you may need to remove the airbox on the passenger side, and the radiator overflow bottle on the drivers side to get your hands in there.

they also arent bulbs, they are burners :P

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

^^ +1 what he said.

its the easiest way IMO.

I once saw a Veyron in Dubai on one of my trips there. window down, guy smoking. hand hanging out the window. I think I cried a little.:(

samuri Rising Star

samuri

Posted
  • Author
Posted

osted Yesterday, 07:24 PM

Anyways, back on topic to please Chuckie... Do a search, I swear someone asked the same question. Isn't it either the through the wheel arch/plastic or remove the air box method? Would it be easyier of you removed the Front bar? someone said thats about a 5min job

isnt removal of the Front bar for headlamp unit removal

mym35 Collaborator

mym35

Posted
Posted

osted Yesterday, 07:24 PM

Anyways, back on topic to please Chuckie... Do a search, I swear someone asked the same question. Isn't it either the through the wheel arch/plastic or remove the air box method? Would it be easyier of you removed the Front bar? someone said thats about a 5min job

isnt removal of the Front bar for headlamp unit removal

I asked the question on dec 20 about removing /replacing xenon globes on m35.. It was easy through the wheel arch on drivers side. passenger side easier through top end.

samuri Rising Star

samuri

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I asked the question on dec 20 about removing /replacing xenon globes on m35.. It was easy through the wheel arch on drivers side. passenger side easier through top end.

I tried the passenger side but did not remove the air box (not clear if I must do this or just its a good idea. it was quite awkward and I gave up as I wasn't sure what I was doing with no vision( and a little nervous).

Do I need to remove the air-filter box?

Is the globe replacement a straight swap?

I notice there is an upper and a lower light in the headlamp.( only had my car 10 days)

Where do I make the swap, upper or lower position in the headlamp.

thanks

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

the xenon is the upper light, yes it is a straight swap. but whatever you do DONT touch the glass of the burner, youll ruin it. an H4 is in the lower position for high-beam and fog light. also dont touch the glass, and yes its a direct swap.

nickcorr Proficient

nickcorr

Posted
Posted

It's actually, quite funny hearing about vehicle manufacturers refusing to provide cars for ADR crash testing (BMW, Audi, Mercedes) because European standards far exceed our own. I think they just like being unnecessarily officious. That, and they like smashing up other peoples shit...

You will sadly never see a road registered Veyron in Australia because ADR's required TWO vehicles for the authority to completely destroy! At $1.5 mill a POP, they were politely invited to go f##k themselves...

Most manufacturers do not need to submit vehicles to pass ADR, from a crash test and emissions point of view, as they already meet the Euro specs and the ADRs are in the main, based on the Euro regs. The main ADR specific changes are for the child seat mounts and variable dashboard illumination plus all the little pissy bits. They just submit their Euro aproved test results and it gets approved by Canberra..

They are even allowed to leave the ISOFix seat mounts in the cars (Subaru, Audi, BMW, Merc, Land Rover etc.) even though they are technically illegal under ADR.

Some of the ADR documents are copied from Europe even have the Euro (UNECE) numbers in them...

ADR for Xenons

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • wizlb
      Flex Fuel Kit Workshop

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • Piggaz
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...