Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to know exactly what temperature the water is, not "somewhere between 65 and 110 degrees" while the needle sits in one spot in the middle.

Before I pull it apart to try fix it, has anyone modified the water temperature gauge to eliminate the inbuilt normalization?

The consult port can give you an accurate digital readout if you have a device which can work with it. I use a Blitz r-vit, which gives me a digital value for the water temp (along with all the other ecu readouts)

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/blitz/rmonitor-rvit.html

fyi, This wont work with a powerfc. Only with a standard ecu.

Yep, know about reading and tuning via the Consult port, however I'd prefer the factory gauge to work properly without the addition of aftermarket products that I think look out of place.

Cheers

I was thinking more along the lines of mounting an aftermarket gauge behind the dash, then connecting the factory needle to the a/m one.

I was thinking more along the lines of mounting an aftermarket gauge behind the dash, then connecting the factory needle to the a/m one.

Ahh yep, makes sense.

I'll do that if I can't modify the factory motor that drives the temp needle. I'd prefer to keep it since it fits properly for illumination, max and min stops are in the right spot etc.

Cheers

Done - I removed the normalization electronics and calibrated the gauge so it accurately tells me the engine temp. The gauge is linear however the NTC temp sender is logarithmic so higher temps are accurately displayed which suits me perfectly.

Before modifying the gauge, while bench testing the sender and dashboard temp gauge, it begins moving from C when the engine temp is at 45 degrees, hits the middle at 60 degrees, stays in the middle until 110 degrees and reaches the H marker at 130 degrees.

Going from top to bottom

H - 105 deg

--- 100 deg

- 95 deg

--- 90 deg

- 85 deg

--- 80 deg

C - 75 deg

post-371-0-36251400-1295131217_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bozz

Done - I removed the normalization electronics and calibrated the gauge so it accurately tells me the engine temp. The gauge is linear however the NTC temp sender is logarithmic so higher temps are accurately displayed which suits me perfectly.

Before modifying the gauge, while bench testing the sender and dashboard temp gauge, it begins moving from C when the engine temp is at 45 degrees, hits the middle at 60 degrees, stays in the middle until 110 degrees and reaches the H marker at 130 degrees.

Going from top to bottom

H - 105 deg

--- 100 deg

- 95 deg

--- 90 deg

- 85 deg

--- 80 deg

C - 75 deg

thats real nifty! Should write up a tutorial on how to do this modification.

Although, anyone not knowing the modification has been done will be freaking out that it sitting just above the Cold indicator haha.

My car cruises on 78-84deg so it would be hovering just above the C mark haha

Cars cold start switches at 65degrees, so the gauge wont reflect that as it wont move after 75deg.

I want to know exactly what temperature the water is, not "somewhere between 65 and 110 degrees" while the needle sits in one spot in the middle.

Before I pull it apart to try fix it, has anyone modified the water temperature gauge to eliminate the inbuilt normalization?

what a f**king hassle for a guage that still isn't going to tell you the engine temp

pro tip: defi make good gauges

my water gauge tells me exactly what temperature it is always

Thanks for your input. Keep being totally awesome.

thats real nifty! Should write up a tutorial on how to do this modification.

Although, anyone not knowing the modification has been done will be freaking out that it sitting just above the Cold indicator haha.

My car cruises on 78-84deg so it would be hovering just above the C mark haha

Cars cold start switches at 65degrees, so the gauge wont reflect that as it wont move after 75deg.

Besides one person before I did the mod, I didn't think anyone wanted it, seems people like adding gauges and shit to their interior. I'll summarize:

I pulled the gauge apart, drew a circuit diagram, bypassed the normalization electronics and then put it back together.

Next, I pulled out the temp sender, put it in a small pot and covered it in vegetable oil (coz water boils at 100 deg) and put it on the stove. I heated it and measured the temp vs resistance as it was cooling down (to get a more accurate reading) and plotted a graph - compared to the R32 factory manual, my sender was reading low by about 15%. I then used a 10w variable resistor to simulate temperature and modified the electronics to read what I wanted as minimum and maximum. Put it together and all is sweet :)

Thanks for your input. Keep being totally awesome.

Besides one person before I did the mod, I didn't think anyone wanted it, seems people like adding gauges and shit to their interior. I'll summarize:

I pulled the gauge apart, drew a circuit diagram, bypassed the normalization electronics and then put it back together.

Next, I pulled out the temp sender, put it in a small pot and covered it in vegetable oil (coz water boils at 100 deg) and put it on the stove. I heated it and measured the temp vs resistance as it was cooling down (to get a more accurate reading) and plotted a graph - compared to the R32 factory manual, my sender was reading low by about 15%. I then used a 10w variable resistor to simulate temperature and modified the electronics to read what I wanted as minimum and maximum. Put it together and all is sweet :)

haha sounds awesome. Good job

Nice work. I also like to keep things relatively stock inside, and was wondering what the water temp is when it's sitting at the middle of the guage the whole time.

Might as well remove the gauge and put a light there to tell you it's either cold or overheating (Tiida) :P

It does take a lot of time and effort to do something like this, so thanks for sharing.

Well shit eh... if I pull the dash apart for any reason again in the future, I'll take pictures and do a quick write up.

I thought I was the only one who wanted his car looking stock :)

Cheers

i think its more about having a useful in-dash gauge, rather then having absolutely no warning before hitting 100 degrees and blowing a head gasket.

if nissan provided a useful gauge, i believe it would have saved thousands of blown head gaskets around the world.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I highly rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...