Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I've got an annoying problem with my FJ20. Ever since i did a full engine build on it, i have had temp creep issues at idle.

Its runs normally while driving at around 80-82 degrees with the thermos coming on at 82. However, it generally won't pull the engine temp back at idle. The fans will only just hold it at temperature or in traffic or a warm day, it will creep up slowly.

I run a 10 and 12 inch curved blade fans and a 3 core radiator which i have had completely stripped and rebuilt. (helped a little bit) The back of the bonnet is also lifted but i still find myself looking at the temp gauge creeping up slowly.

The fans don't run any shrouding so that will be something i will try to sort out and try.

Could anyone recommend anything else to try to help bring the temp down at idle?

Also, will a turbo beanie help? I run a big top mount turbo and gate and it pumps out some serious heat which is no doubt sending under bonnet temps sky high. but will this cause water temp to creep up?

Thanks in advance.

Gareth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349426-engine-temp-creeping/
Share on other sites

much bigger cams, head work, forged pistons, rods, external oil pump setup.

The only thing i think could make it temp creep to do with the engine would be the head work and bigger cams as its a fairly lumpy idle and idles around 1000 rpm.

Water pump was a new standard part.

Interesting you say lifting the bonnet makes things worse.. wouldn't that vent hot air?

no i believe the bonnet is setup like that and makes a pressure zone

i dont remember the physics behind it, but i think raising the bonnet makes it worse for temps

did you raise the bonnet at same time of engine rebuild?

Raise the cut-in temp of the fans. There is no point fitting thermo fans that run basically all the time. All you are doing is shifting the load on the engine from a factory fan to the alternator. The cut-in can be as high as 90 C, or even higher - the motion of the car will control the engine temps; the fan is just for those times when the engine gets a bit hotter because the car isn't moving, or is moving too slowly.

As for the temp increasing at idle, are you sure the fans are running the right way - pulling air through the radiator into the engine bay (I'm assuming you have had to mount the fans on the engine side of the radiator).

Ordinarily, having a raised rear of bonnet is only a problem when the car is moving - there is a high pressure region created at the base of the windscreen (that's where comes from for the heater / a/c in the cabin). When the rear of the bonnet is raised, this high pressure region feeds a high pressure into the engine bay, and that restricts air flowing through the radiator to cool the engine. (you should recall from high school physics that air moves from regions of high pressure to regions of low pressure; if the inside of the engine bay is already at a high pressure, then air from in front of the radiator won't flow towards that region)

shroud should make a massive difference. otherwise you're just circulating hot air around the engine bay not actually pulling it through the core.

raised bonnet may help *slightly* when stopped but when underway it will do nothing as the base of the windscreen is a high pressure area and you will not get any air being removed once you're moving. for best cooling when moving you need a sealed bonnet and your underbody plastic guards - these make a vacuum behind the radiator and help suck air through.

for cooling when stationary you need a powerful fan (engine driven, not electric) and proper shrouding. and a decent radiator which you've already got.

From the mouth of one of NSW best known CAMS officials, raising the bonnet hinders cooling ability. As Paul said the windscreen is a high pressure zone and would alter the airflow through the engine bay while having it propped up.

This should be changed back to normal however I do not think this is the source of your problem. I believe you have airlock in your head (poorly bled). The other thing I have seen with alloy radiators are the tubes expanding and not letting any air through.. While they still flow fine they do jack all for cooling. I have generally seen cheap alloy rads to SUCK at cooling regardless.

Recommend swapping to stock radiator (for test) and being very careful while bleeding coolant. GL

Thanks for all the replies everyone. It definitely seems as though i will drop the back of the bonnet back down. I did that recently to try but only seemed to delay the onset of temp creep while stationary. Did nothing while moving.

The radiator isn't alloy, its a standard radiator for the model car with an extra core and it's bled for certain.

The temp sits around 80 when driving but when stationary in traffic it will climb into the 90s and i have to keep moving for it to come back down. So to me it has to be an airflow issue i would have thought. I know its not huge temps but if i eft it to sit there... it would keep climbing.

The fans are on the engine side and like i said, with no shrouding, so i think dropping the bonnet and building a shroud will be a start.

Anything else??

Thanks for the input, some interesting points there.

like everyone else has said, the fan shroud should help.

Also check the timing at idle.. sometimes retarded timing at idle can cause the temp to rise at idle.

What CFM are the fans rated at?

Was the radiator cleaned and flushed after the engine was run in?

Ok ill suss the timing.

The fans... i have no idea what CFM they flow. Cant find anything on them to tell me either.

Yes the radiator was cleaned and flushed after run in.

Has anyone found turbo beanies to reduce engine temp or creep?

G

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...