Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So you've never done Texi before?

Welcome to your new addiction.

To start with, have a look at this video, it'll show you what happens there before I get started with the loooong bunch of reading.







<3 to Eric for his hard work on this.

Firstly, location:

This carpark and pad. Zoom out to work out how to get there.

Before I start this long read, MASSIVE ups to everyone who makes these events happen, to the photographers/videographers (Matt, Kory, Eric, and I'm not sure who the other guy was, sorry!), and everyone who comes for making it a fun day every time.

Onwards!

This is everything you'll need to come along and have fun.

The initial setup needed for doing Texikhanas is as follows, with some rough pricing included.

Fire extinguisher: $30
Helmet: $100 (approx)
CAMS/ASAA license: $50 (approx)
Event itself: $55 or 75 (this changes every now and then; our costs keep rising :/ )

These will be covered below.

If you're not a member of SAU, you can sign up on the day for $60 (renewal is $40, yearly); membership is on a prorata basis from June-June. You get a $20 discount at all Texikhana events, discounts on merchandise, and an extra forum where all the cool kids hang out. There's also benefits of membership such as deals on Fenix Radiators and Federal Tyres.

So if you're coming to multiple texis, it will pay for itself!

If you wanna join, the form is attached to this post.

Just fill it out and bring on the day!

</plug>

AASA License.pdf

CAMS Forms.pdf

SAUNSW membership.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349895-so-youve-never-done-texi-before/
Share on other sites

WHAT DO I NEED?

Fire extinguisher:
This is the trickiest bit, due to installation.

$30 from Autobarn (or similar). There's some threads around where people have mounted their extinguisher under the back seat; pictures in THIS LINK DOWN BELOW CLICK CLICK CLICK phew


Helmet:
I bought my helmet from a guy on eBay, and I know there's a few more out there who've done the same thing. The helmet has to comply to the 1698AS/NZ regulation, and these do. Posted, they're around $90 from memory. If you want another visor too, the dark tinted ones are good.

http://shop.ebay.com...=&_trksid=p3686

His measurements are pretty right (in terms of, get something, wrap it around your head above your ears, voila).

Alternatively, if you're near an MCAS (mcas.com.au), they also have some pretty cheap helmets. Some people prefer open-face helmets for Texi, some prefer closed. Up to you, in the end.


CAMS/ASAA License:
This is absolutely necessary. Basically it's a license to say that you're going to compete in an event, etc. Think of it as how fishers need a fishing license.

You can pre-download the forms from:

Check the first post for updated links.

By filling it out prior to attending, it makes things that much quicker. Much appreciated by the execs!

IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?

Not NEED as such, but on the day, sometimes we have a few photographers and videographers, and in the weeks following the texi, compile all the photos and videos they've taken, and send them out on DVDs to the people who've ordered them. The DVDs cost $25 (from memory?) last time, and are chock-full of stuff from the day. While not exclusively of your car, there'll be plenty in there, and the work that the guys do is just amazing.

For examples of the photography work, see:

http://mattheweverin....com/?page_id=6
http://www.koryleung...lleryindex.html


You can also rent one of three Go-Pros that SAUNSW has purchased, but keep in mind these go fast. Rental for the day is $35, IIRC, and includes instruction, and then the DVD with all the movies mailed out to you.

Sometimes these might not be available - If you're unsure, ask on the day.

ON THE DAY

The early-birds get there around 7.30am to set up and to start all the paperwork going (and have a chat), but driver's briefing is at 8.40am. Please don't get there at 8.30; your car needs to be scrutinised to ensure there's nothing horribly wrong with it prior to getting on the pad.

Scrutinising includes:

-No oil leaks
-No loose items in cars (subs, floor mats, bags, etc)
-No screamer pipes

Here's a link to the last scrutineering sheet to give you an idea what to check:
(LINK TO SCRUTINEERING FORM? Anyone wanna help out with this?)


As a rough guide, getting there at ABSOLUTE LATEST 8.00 is the way to go. Gives you time to do all your paperwork, get your car number, do scrutineering, and change tyres/whatever other mechanical work you need to do, including getting everything out of your car that's loose.

The day goes from 9am to 4.30pm, and you'll get quite a few runs in. A fair few people head off at around 3 or so, as it can get quite exhausting, and some of us have a long drive home. This works out good for those who stay; more pan time!


HOW IT WORKS

Morning courses are set up and run for half the day. You have a "left" course and a "right" course. In the afternoon, they're switched over to battle courses, where you do the same track side-by-side with another car. We all line up in the carpark and have a go one at a time, with one person on each "side" at a time.



MORNING COURSES

Here's videos of the last two texi's morning courses:

Left Course:

Looped course:
......crap I'm having a hard time finding a video. I've got one on my laptop but I'm on a train right now so I'll upload when I get to work.

Cloverleaf:
Eric's video again… Direct link to a 180 doing it right (video jumps to the right time):



Right Course:

The right course involves a "go-to-whoa" section, where you accelerate hard, then brake to finish within a box.

Use Eric's video above, and jump to 2m25s.


Afternoon Battle Courses:

Eric's video again, 6m30s.

We all roll out on the tarmac at the far end, line up, and do battle. Awesome adrenaline rush trying to beat someone when you've got a direct reference to how well you're doing.

NOTE, these are changing this texi, apparently. Battles will no longer be done side by side, but be done in the format of the morning courses; the pad split in two.


NOW WHAT?

Hopefully this has convinced you that it's an awesome day, and we want to go out there and just have fun biggrin.gif



TL,DR: JUST COME ALONG AND HAVE FUN.
  • 1 year later...

UPDATE::

Check the first post for the latest CAMS/AASA forms. AASA's website has been flaky at best lately, and CAMS don't run a PDF rendering engine, making you use ASHX or something.

Print these out, fill em out, and bring em on the day (if you need a license).

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 4 months later...

What's better to arrive with? full tank / half tank / almost empty tank of fuel?

Depending on how heavy your car is on the Juice, ill be running on a full tank...

If you think you might spill petrol out (old gas cap/old gasket) then 3/4 tank. Just to be sure. We've seen cars gushing fuel out and have to ask them to sort it out.

Stock & Mild mod'd cars would go through 1/4 - 1/2 tank.

You'd only go through more if you have a VERY serious car (e.g. 1000+ cc injectors, e85 tune, etc).

If you think you might spill petrol out (old gas cap/old gasket) then 3/4 tank. Just to be sure. We've seen cars gushing fuel out and have to ask them to sort it out.

Stock & Mild mod'd cars would go through 1/4 - 1/2 tank.

You'd only go through more if you have a VERY serious car (e.g. 1000+ cc injectors, e85 tune, etc).

I have 2000cc injectors but don't need more than 1/4 tank as I normally break shit before then :laugh: just ask Luke!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...