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Critique My Setup

islade

By islade,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I've got the manifold on its way through to post to me at the moment. Got a friend donating the turbo to me in the next couple of days. Just paid for the cam gear. The car is getting painted this weekend, so i'll start installing stuff next week. I'd just like to know if there is anything else you think i should do before the tune?

R33 S1 RB25DET

GT3076 0.82 External Gate

Cheap 600x300x76 Front Mount Cooler

KKR 50mm wastegate plumbed in.

Nahux front pipe, Very high flow cat :P, 3" exhaust

Z32 AFM, S15 480cc injectors, Pod, Big sard fuel reg

PowerFC (no hand controller)

Shimmed-up R33 (automatic, different ratio?) diff

Adjustable Cam Gear

Bosch 040

I was thinking a front facing plenum maybe? I don't so much want peak power as I want responsive street-able/driftable power, so maybe stock intake isn't so bad? I don't want to spend $1000 for a tiny difference, but is there anything else you guys think i should get? How bad is a cheaper cooler with this setup? I don't want a better one for bragging rights, but just wondered if the expensive ones would make an actual noticeable difference?

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paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

get a hand controller, it will save you endless guessing "why is my engine light flashing" and how do it change this

the auto diff from memory is 3.9 and maunal is 4.11 so you will loose a touch of response for top end speed

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

ah there you go, it is 4.3

thats odd, i would have expected highway style gears for auto

4.363 - R34 RB25DE 4WD, R34 RB25DE Manual, R34 RB20E, R33 RB25DE 4WD, R33 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DE, R32 RB20DET, R32 RB20E,

C35 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE 4WD Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DE Auto, C33 Laurel RB20DE Manual

A31 Cerfiro RB20DET, A31 Cerfiro RB20DE Manual, S13 CA18DET, S13 CA18DE, C23 Serena SR20DE 2WD, C23 Serena CD20T 2WD

4.111 - R34 RB25DET Auto, R33 RB25DET Manual, C35 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C35 Laurel RB20DE Auto, C34 Laurel RB25DET Auto, C34 Laurel RB20DE Auto,

S13 SR20DE (ABS),

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

If you have a non stock diff you should be able to find the ratio in this table if you know what car it came out of: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/lsd_price.pdf

Forget the FF plenum for now - a lot of work and money for minimal gain. How bad is your fmic? Worth having a good one even if its second hand. The key to success is a really good tuner!!!

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Maybe bigger fuel pump??

really an 040 isnt big enough???

mines flowing enough to feed 550cc injectors without a fuel reg or rail pressure bump and Im sure Ive read it can supply larger injectors too.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

clutch will be an issue, also potentially coil packs that are 15yrs old.

and just because both might be fine initially, budget for them to fail in less than 12 months so that's another 2000 easily.

so obviously forget the plenum, you have other expenses to worry about yet.

other things like brakes and tyres cause extra power means harder on those two areas which are probably gonna be another 2k in the next 12 months or so.

plus servicing ;)

you also make no mention of a dump pipe either.

dorifticon Community Regular

dorifticon

Posted
Posted

I used to have an r33 GTS-t at roughly the same level of tune as you, and would just like to note that while the forward facing plenum may not net massive kw per se, it does eliminate a lot of intercooler plumbing once you have a front mount setup - I'm assuming your plumbing currently comes up from the drivers side guard, snakes its way across the engine back above the radiator to link back up to the crossover inlet? I found it was a small but noticeable change in response when I had the plumbing shoot straight up into a forward facing manifold.

Anyway something to think about. I have seen modified inlet plenums that have been cut and shut to put the throttle body on the front but unless you can weld alloy yourself it may be cheaper to buy one off the shelf.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

I think the injectors will come back to bite you later on as they are borderline size. I am guessing your hoping for the best part of 300rwkw on 98. This will most likely be just ok. But I think they will be running very high duty cycle at this power. Then if you ever want more or want to try E85 they will be too small. Looks like you plan on increasing the fuel pressure, this can have a side effect of making the fuel pump work a lot harder and as pressure increases, a fuel pumps flow decreases.

As ash said, no mention of dump pipe or upgraded clutch.

Hard one with the intercooler, could be ok, might be a restriction, impossible to say.

Apart from that looks good.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

How much power is it currently making on how much boost?

E85 could be something to consider if you want to run more boost but I suspect with stock pistons etc you don't want to.

Personally I'd fork out for some good semi slicks, suspension bushes and then go enjoy it, looks like a perfect engine combo for some track work and as a street car. Either do this or just leave it as is and save the cash, no real need to spend anything else on it.

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