Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I live in Sydney & want to know if anyone knows of who can remove my front & rear window from my r32gtr shell?

I guess i could call o’brien glass – is there anyone else though as im sure they wont be cheap...

Alternatively – i am tempted to do this myself as well if anyone can point me in the right direction.

regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350820-any-window-removers-in-sydney/
Share on other sites

stevo - the thread you closed was directed at 'can i remove the windows myself' whereas this thread is 'who in sydney can remove my windows'...although i do also ask in this thread whether i give it a crack myself - nonetheless i understand the confusion :)

back on topic

I have removed a rear before , i used this tool

post-65674-0-86020800-1295336669_thumb.jpg

I got it from a windcreen supply warehouse for about 35$.its basically just a handle with a bent blade on it and another handle to help you drag it along, you could make one if your clever enough..

Im not sure if windscreen places like obriens would sell them but if you find the people that supply there windscreens they should have them..

Its a prick of a job but if you keep the blade clean and sharp it csan be done with patience

There is a wire that runs around the rubber and apparently if you hook it up to a battery and heat it it soften the rubber, though i have never tried this way the wire does exsist good luck finding the ends though..

But basically you just have to be really gentle and cut your way through the rubber ,i think I did use a hairdryer to soften it a bit as well. Heat, slice, heat, slice And make sure you dont twist the screen by pulling on one corner or something you have to keep it flat,lay down in the car and push it with your feet gently if you can once the rubber is cut away..It will test your patience..GL..

Edited by Arthur T3

i got a quote for $90 to get the rear window which is toughened so the glass expert said this wont crack, however, as the front windscreen is laminated there is a 50% chance of it cracking which sux

if they cant get the front out every time without fail they should give up and look for another job

I'm thinking that this is a bit of a tough call... a glass company can't really say for certain the strength of of the forward facing window of a 20 odd year old vehicle which probably has seen it's far share of stones and other crap thrown at it.

I replaced the rear window on my old R31 once, granted it was already shattered so the removal process was simply to break the glass further and clean the area around the window so we could stick the replacement in... tools used where a hammer, a chisel and a screwdriver :)

I'm thinking that this is a bit of a tough call... a glass company can't really say for certain the strength of of the forward facing window of a 20 odd year old vehicle which probably has seen it's far share of stones and other crap thrown at it.

I replaced the rear window on my old R31 once, granted it was already shattered so the removal process was simply to break the glass further and clean the area around the window so we could stick the replacement in... tools used where a hammer, a chisel and a screwdriver :)

if the window is in good nick there shouldn't be a problem getting it out with out cracking it

i dont give a shit about excuses, if you're a window guy thats your job and if you can pull a front screen without breaking it you need to find a new job

im sick and tired of the "all care but no responsibility" bullshit they all try and spin

i had an absolute dead shit from obriens smash both my rear quarter windows on my skyline the first time i painted it

so thats $550 each window plus the money he wanted to pull em out

i told him where he could stick his money cause he didnt do the job so i wasnt paying him

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...