Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, having a bit of a problem tuning my gtr. Both the tuner and I are stumped so would love any input. Ill try and give all relevant detail, but if I miss something feel free to ask.

My main issue is that its leaning out around 5000rpm at 20psi. I'll go through and explain all the details. The Ecu is a pfc.

When it first leaned out we pulled the fuel pump, and it was the stock one still. I had never bothered checking it because I was told it was a nismo item (the previous set up had a hks ta45, log mani ect and had always held fuel pressure fine)

I replaced that with a walbro gss 342 that I had at home (recommended by the tuner over a 040, also personal preference, people say it will be to small, but when I see a pressure drop I'll believe it) – It still leaned out

Put a fuel pressure gauge on the end of the fuel rail, pressure did not drop at all

The injectors are only at 65% duty (so they're not the issue)

I have twin 25afm's which are confirmed by part numbers, and both sending equalish voltage signals (have tested these, one reads 0.2v lower then the other at idle regardless of what branch of the Y-pipe its on, but under no load at 2000rmp the are close to equal voltages) – I'm confident that these are not the issue.

The airflow map is maxed out at 5500rpm (5v)

Now its easy to say "get bigger afm's", however its proven many times that twin 25's on a 26 with a 35r will have enough resolution up to making 400rwkw.

Despite the afm map being maxed, we should have been able to tune around this using all the rpm axis cells to at least prove that it was the afm's fault. All the cells in the appropriate section were given an overall correction of 30%, (I think ended up trying even higher) and it still leaned out at the exact same point.

I've searched the net for many hours and there's not one mention of any issue like this. I've seen numerous setup with the same afm's and a turbo that flow much more air then mine with no issues.

so in short,

-the afm's are reading correctly

-the fuel pressure is remaining constant (meaning fuel pumps big enough, not blocks in the filter, the line is adequate diameter and the injectors aren't using more fuel then they are receiving)

-the injectors are large enough

The only idea we have at the moment is that there's an issue with the PFC. No one I know has an ecu that they are willing to lend to test this, so it seems my only option is to get a new ECU to try. If I do, I will be going down the map sensor route as well.

Power wise, with a fair bit of timing pulled out and no work done to the fuel map, cam gears not set up, it still made 390hp atw at ~5000rpm.

My set up

DSCF1655-Copy.jpg

Edited by zachscalais
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352666-gtr-tuning-issues-keeps-leaning-out/
Share on other sites

that sucks, I dont know of anyone with another pfc I can borrow unfortuantly. Slowly saving for another ecu though, the track car is getting most of the money at the moment, its much more fun.

Thanks for the info though

yeah I've hard this weird issue with a power FC before. car was fine till I fried the ecu. ecu was repaired and appeared to work perfectly fine, tune was still in there etc. but the car was lean as hell. would barely run unless I dialled in massive fuel correction. drove it like that for a while just dialling in fuel correction each time. got it in a dyno and apprently regardless of changing the tune the car would not respond. replaced it with a nistune and everything was fine.

thats weird beer baron, but if its been fried i suppose anything is possible,

Zach, do you know what sort of numbers the power fc is seeing in the fuel table? what injectors?

Have you tried rescaling the AFMs?

yeah I've hard this weird issue with a power FC before. car was fine till I fried the ecu. ecu was repaired and appeared to work perfectly fine, tune was still in there etc. but the car was lean as hell. would barely run unless I dialled in massive fuel correction. drove it like that for a while just dialling in fuel correction each time. got it in a dyno and apprently regardless of changing the tune the car would not respond. replaced it with a nistune and everything was fine.

i had it tuned at godzilla with the old 550cc's and old turbo setup, and had no issues using the same afm's and ecu. And he didnt mention that I was nearly maxing out the table then, so im assuming it was fine a year ago. (even though that turbo would have been flowing a heap less air, probably similar on WOT to this 35r at 5000rmp.)

IM in vic where are you? i have a d-jetro 4sale atm if your trust worthy i may lend it for a day or so.

hey thanks for the offer, but im in Bundaberg QLD :(

thats weird beer baron, but if its been fried i suppose anything is possible,

Zach, do you know what sort of numbers the power fc is seeing in the fuel table? what injectors?

Have you tried rescaling the AFMs?

injectors are delphi 1000's. i cant rember the fuel table figures off the top of my head. in a different town to the car atm. We didnt rescale the afm reference table because we added fuel to every reference point corresponding with the 5v in the fuel map but even that didnt help, which is leading more towards an ecu error rather them afm/afm table setup

Edited by zachscalais

yeah pretty confident with it, got super spark coilpacks. Its not breaking down or missing as it ramps up. It makes power nicely untill that one point. Plugs are brand new, gapped to .8. Pretty standard stuff. If it was blowing out spark it should be getting richer if anything?

yeah true, but at the same time there should be something in the curve that would show that happening? and we should also be able to alter the severity of it by changing the values, none of this changed the point at which it happened. There was no excessive unburnt fuel smoke around the point.

We could have ran lower boost which would have helped fault find, but didn't think of it at the time.

I'll see if i can get my hands on some different coils, no one around here has a 26 willing to help out though :( ill also try and get a copy the tune off the tuner. Even if it is coils-packs, I still have an issue somewhere to be saying the afm's are maxed out correct?

is fuel pressure increasing with boost? line hasnt popped off the reg or anything silly like that?

+1, or the regulator may have died.

You said "Put a fuel pressure gauge on the end of the fuel rail, pressure did not drop at all" but did you see it rise following the boost rise? ie you had 20psi more fuel pressure in the rail at 20psi boost?

It's probably not your problem now but once you sort this issue it will be

the walbros are rated 246l/h@50psi, basically at 1 bar boost your base pressure plus boost pressure is going to be near enough to 50psi. 246/60 is 4.1L/min

1000cc/m injectors x6 x.65 duty gives 3.9L/min

You're marginal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...