Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im going to change my timing belt on my rb25det. i have been told to get a timing light however if i line all the marks up correctly i shouldnt need to use a timing light. a few people have told me to use one and a few of the mechanics at my work have told me not to worry. just wondering what everyone elses opinion is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352692-timing-light-do-i-need-one/
Share on other sites

Yeah mate Put a light on it my cas just died I replaced it and I put the new one in the same place and my timing is all screwed I have flat spots all thru the revs till after 5g and then my car violently jerks back and forth backfires and is a right pig to drive

There is a solid white wire just befor the igniter you use that as your number 1 trigger wire for your timing light ;)

for series 1 or 2? i have S1

edit: just remembered S2 dont have an igniter

Edited by Clutch

same thing. same spot. no ignitor.

replacing the CAS with another one you Definitely have to check the timing. if your doing the 100 tho service, and using the old one again, then mark it beforehand and put it back as you found it is an OK way of doing it...but I'd still suggest checking it with a timing light again at the end anyways.

if you need to buy one (i did, my old one was too old school) then make sure you get one that clips over wires......not under a spark plug lead.

simple, clip the clip over the white wire. positive and a negative on the alligator clips and your away!!

Edited by boiracer

same thing. same spot. no ignitor.

replacing the CAS with another one you Definitely have to check the timing. if your doing the 100 tho service, and using the old one again, then mark it beforehand and put it back as you found it is an OK way of doing it...but I'd still suggest checking it with a timing light again at the end anyways.

if you need to buy one (i did, my old one was too old school) then make sure you get one that clips over wires......not under a spark plug lead.

simple, clip the clip over the white wire. positive and a negative on the alligator clips and your away!!

that sounds easy as

so once i have the (good) timing gun, attach to white leads, and read the timing degree on the gun? that how it goes?

It's been a while but off the top of my head you need to mark the TDC point on the harmonic ballancer should be a little mark on the pulley then behind the pulley should be the timing marks you need to point the gun at the marks and as the car idles you should see your TDC point line up with a certain degree of timing it should be around 15 degree before TDC if that makes sense tho it has been a while I could be off a lil

Car needs to be put into base idle mode when checking the timing, either doing it through CONSULT software (ecutalk etc).. I'm not sure if unplugging the TPS or unplugging some other related thing will put it into base idle mode as well.

Getting the timing light to work with the loop wire is not always easy.

For a surefire way of doing it. Get a spark plug lead (old or new) remove number one coilpack and put the lead over the spark plug. Slip a bolt into the end of the coilpack and put the other end of the spark plug lead over the bolt. Now your skyline is oldschool with leads and sh!t ;)

Clip your timing light over that and you'll be sweet. I say this cause we could not get the loop wire to work on my car and had to do this

Getting the timing light to work with the loop wire is not always easy.

For a surefire way of doing it. Get a spark plug lead (old or new) remove number one coilpack and put the lead over the spark plug. Slip a bolt into the end of the coilpack and put the other end of the spark plug lead over the bolt. Now your skyline is oldschool with leads and sh!t ;)

Clip your timing light over that and you'll be sweet. I say this cause we could not get the loop wire to work on my car and had to do this

spot on.

also, some cheap timing lights read double when using the loop at the rear of the motor. nfi why but they do....i had a supercheap one that was sending me crazy reading 40o when it was really at 20o

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...