Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys :)

I got my non turbo r33 recently (downgraded from gtst for my P plates :() and my mums been complaining about the fuel and that its not much different to the GTST...

After filling in 50$ which iwas 38 L to get to the bottom empty Line it took approx 250kms..

thats only 6.6kms a L, and this is with normal driving, although really occasional accelerations.

ive been hearing numbers like 9kms so i was wondering if it could possibily be an issue with the car?

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352876-rb25de-fuel-consumption/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I got better fuel consumption when my car was converted to turbo with all the factory turbo bits then I did when it was n/a... motor doesn't have the turbo helping it get up to speed/under load etc...

should be 300-400 a tank... do a full tank on 98, not 95 or 91, that will make a difference too...

98 will help it mate. put a filter in it new sparkes and get the o2 sensor changed should help her out a bit with fuel for some strange reason i managed an 174kms a quarter the other day with the a/c on with a 26 highway after i changed to splitfire coilpacks and new plugs :) i was dam happy and now i am getting 140ish round town driving :)

You should be getting at least 500kms a tank when driving (including stop and go, freeway, and flooring)

This.

Out of a complete tank I'd get 520+.

Out of general just filling up, I'd fill up every 480km.

R34 25DE NEO, auto, using BP ultimate

Results are from ECUTalk unit installed in the car.

Freeway/Highway = 9L/100km (best 8.5L/100km, worst 11L/100km)

Mixed (normal day-to-day) = 12L/100km (best 10L/100km, worst 13L/100km)

Heavy traffic = 13.5L/100km (best 12L/100km, worst 16L/100km)

I got better fuel consumption when my car was converted to turbo with all the factory turbo bits then I did when it was n/a...

Ditto, heaps better - halved the revs and just rode the boost torque :P.

I'd be checking/replacing your O2 sensor as a minimum, then get an SAFC and get it tuned to like 13:1 low throttle (<~40%), 12.5:1 heavy throttle and run 98ron (but even tuned to 12 will be huge improvement if your shy). Find a tuner that will do it, I used to run 12.5:1 fuel mixtures on an N/A+T, those on an N/A should handle it fine.

To move an N/A skyline anywhere above walking pace will load up the engine enough to push it out of closed loop, which means 11 down to 10:1 fuel mixtures (I had/have an afr gauge, its disgusting to watch) so a tune will give about 15-20% better city economy. Then there's highway/cruise (when your maintaining speed), with a functioning O2 sensor your mixtures ramble between 14:1 & 15:1 but without it the best you'll see is 12's. With mine unplugged it pretty much just sits in the 10's and 11's, even at idle...

Those things, bit of a $ outlay but totally worth it :P (and you'll pickup smoother delivery and some torque down low and at part throttle).

As for legalities for P Platers, just don’t have it on display...

I found my A/C is sucking some major fuel usage, when it was broken (& hence never used, just windows down + a cigarette lighter powered fan :laugh:) I get over 450km per tank (~13L/100km), but now I have got it fixed (replaced A/C compressor & receiver dryer) I'm struggling to get even 400km per tank.

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

What happened to the 34/33 GTR Jason??

Gotta say I agree with all the guys here that have got better efficiency after going turbo. I used to get about 300-350kms to a full tank when my car was NA, but now I have the new engine in with 300rwhp and a shocking tune I am still getting 400-450kms a tank. Hitting boost frequently as well... It does struggle with hwy kms though, I get 450 driving around town but only about 350-380 cruising on the freeway. Damn diff ratio :(

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

I love teh beemers.

Mums got a E39 528i and best I've got out of it on the freeway was 6.2L/100km with AC ON! Has 70L tank, thereotical 1130kms :worship: .

If I ever need a long distance car...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...