Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys how are you i 2 want buy this car for $4000 how much do you think it will cost 2 fix it. and is it worth to buy it thanks oh and come with all this

Damaged 1995 R33 Nissan Skyline GTST M Spec 5 SPD Manual - $4K ONO

Was involved in an accident recently, got T-boned on the passenger side where most of the damage is. Driver's side is OK

Engine, manual gearbox, driveline and diff is in good condition

Engine has done approximately 130K kms

Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch

GReddy MSpec FMIC

Apexi Power Intake

Bosch 023 fuel pump

Full exhaust from turbo to cat with high flow cat - 2.5" to 4" cannon muffler

Just Jap boost gauge

Note starcorps in the pics aren't included - car will come with stockies

post-73715-0-28996400-1296885571_thumb.jpg

post-73715-0-87219200-1296885616_thumb.jpg

post-73715-0-94558700-1296885638_thumb.jpg

Edited by streetboyz
  • Nope 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352922-should-i-buy-this-skyline-r33/
Share on other sites

You'd take a fair guess the rail would be stuffed - if so, forget it.

It'll cost more than the purchase price.

I thought you would have learnt after you were scammed 2 months ago. STOP looking for the "cheap deal".

Spend 8-10k, buy a proper car from someone you can see, and one that hasn't been destroyed.

No job + Skyline = bad idea.

$5k Skyline = another $5k to fix what's already broken and will break in future.

Buying damaged Skyline + fixing it = you'd better off buying one in OK condition for 2-3k more.

My advice, get a job first.

If you've only got 5k it would be cheaper to look at 180's,silvia's etc..

but no job no car dude... seriously.. a tank of petrol is about ~$75-80 for 300-400 kms on most skylines, as im guessing your first car will be your daily, depending on how much you use it, could be 1-2 tanks a week...

thought about public transport?

17+turbo+skyline+no job??? sounds like my tax money is going well at centrelink, sounds like bankstown here in syd ;)

but my advice, buy a normal car stock standard, not even a skyline, just some small car, cause i can bet that by the age of 20, any of your cars will have been involved in quite a few accidents.

if that money could buy experience in life, it would be a greater benefit

i use 2 have a skyline R33 but sold it because it was auto lol so now want R33 manual turbo and i only go out with the skyline friday to sunday so weekend use only lol

Last time I checked, Police Officers doesn't have weekends off.

Rule 1) Don't buy other people's problems

Rule 2) Don't buy a car you can't insure

Rule 3) Don't buy a car that you can't on-sell straight away

Rule 4) Accept the advice of those who've learnt from experience

Rule 5) Buy a car you'd be proud to show your new G/F's mother

Rule 5 - My Fiancee's mother has always called my car the "man bag" - because it goes quick, looks nice, but I have no boot and I never have more items in the car other then a laptop or uni bag.... :mellow:

Again.. Stop being a dumb arse.. if you didnt go looking to buy that too cheap nigerian R33 you wouldnt have been scammed of your first $4k.. do yourself a favour..

I'm starting to think you're a troll

Well off you go then - @ $4,000 for that car - it's a bargain.

It's $1,000 under your budget!

Your right, so lets budget this for the young fella

50$

stamp duty, but make sure you fill the transfer formout to say you only paid 800$ for the car

50$

for a slide hammer a rubber mallet and some sandpaper

100$

bog, you will need quite alot

20$

some white spray paint, 3 or 4 cans should do a proper good job

40$

for a good set of beer goggles so you think you panel beating effort was adequate.

10$

for some new windscreen wiper blades very important.

50$

for a really dodgey roadwaorthy, you may have to share some of your beer with him aswell, and dont be surprised should he ask for sexual favours, just oblige

Thats 320 big ones which leaves you 680 buckeroos, just enough to pay the 12 months rego and get stoned..

Dont worry about insurance thats only for people who crash their cars.

Tooo easy :thumbsup:

Edited by Arthur T3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...