Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One Tomei 2.8L crank ready for balance

98bada8a.jpg

Was 1g out on balancer end and 0.6g out on flywheel end .... Usually a green light in most places :)

ae573986.jpg

Not good enough for the master.... Finely balanced till there is 0 grams variance on both ends :P ......... This can take many hours lol

7ede5b41.jpg

Quaife diff ...best on the market hands down.

They do read up pretty good! i have never driven a gtr with a aftermarket front diff. Cant wait! :)

Although, i did spend some time this week having a good chat to BOBBY/JEM about his build and he has definately given me some food for thought..... :blink:

1. I should avoid aftermarket front diffs as they have the potential to crack the block! (i have cracked a block in the past and it had a standard front diff) Can anybody add to this from personal experiences?

2. Cam choice... i am in fact running the same camshafts as Bobby but in opposite form i.e 260in and 270ex Tomei 10.25 lift .... i had noticed this staggered option to be quite the norm in many applications.... Obvisouly with the extensive lengths that Bobs and Skola have gone to run the opposite combo.... what would be the pros and cons of such choices?

3. Static compression and squish.... i am also aiming for a 10:1 comp ratio and had worked out the the squish would come to about 34thou.... Bobs mentioned it was imperative that it is 33thou squish otherwise the motor wont be able to run timing and detnonate........ also how much can you skim off the head and what are the downpoints of taking too much off?

To be honest, its all a bit too much to absorb :(

They do read up pretty good! i have never driven a gtr with a aftermarket front diff. Cant wait! :)

Although, i did spend some time this week having a good chat to BOBBY/JEM about his build and he has definately given me some food for thought..... :blink:

1. I should avoid aftermarket front diffs as they have the potential to crack the block! (i have cracked a block in the past and it had a standard front diff) Can anybody add to this from personal experiences?

2. Cam choice... i am in fact running the same camshafts as Bobby but in opposite form i.e 260in and 270ex Tomei 10.25 lift .... i had noticed this staggered option to be quite the norm in many applications.... Obvisouly with the extensive lengths that Bobs and Skola have gone to run the opposite combo.... what would be the pros and cons of such choices?

3. Static compression and squish.... i am also aiming for a 10:1 comp ratio and had worked out the the squish would come to about 34thou.... Bobs mentioned it was imperative that it is 33thou squish otherwise the motor wont be able to run timing and detnonate........ also how much can you skim off the head and what are the downpoints of taking too much off?

To be honest, its all a bit too much to absorb :(

Hey Steve,

It was great chatting to you giving you the info, anytime mate more then happy to help.

Just wanted to clear one factor to control squish - is by decking the block or using the correct head gasket to achieve 33 thou - decking the head will not change squish.

Hey Steve,

It was great chatting to you giving you the info, anytime mate more then happy to help.

Just wanted to clear one factor to control squish - is by decking the block or using the correct head gasket to achieve 33 thou - decking the head will not change squish.

Hey Bobs!

decking of head is more to acheive disired comp ratio..... what is your opinion on this? can you take off too much? Also can i get the details of the machinist that has the template to do the water gallery mod. Cant really find the exact details in your epic thread lol. Also what else are you doing for cooling with respect to water for your car. Are you running a water/air breather tank? Restricting water going back into the radiator at all?

:cheers:

the quench distance is measured from the face of the head where the squish pad actually is to the top of the piston at TDC, skimming the head doesnt change that distance, a thinner or thicker headgasket will change the distance between the quench pad and piston which will yield a different 'quench distance'

other things that will change the squish is machining the block face and or machining top of the piston by a few thou - i dare say that if you do decide to shave some material off the pistons it may have adverse affects on the piston if too much is taken off

Bobby can you explain how decking the head will not decrease the quench distance?

I would be interested to see how much timing and boost can be put in at 10:1 static comp.

Snozzle has answered it perfectly

Well i dont see anything wrong with running normal timing for a good engine!! you just have to get the squish right as it helps eliminate detonation and this is why you can run more timing and still have high comp.

Hey Bobs!

decking of head is more to acheive disired comp ratio..... what is your opinion on this? can you take off too much? Also can i get the details of the machinist that has the template to do the water gallery mod. Cant really find the exact details in your epic thread lol. Also what else are you doing for cooling with respect to water for your car. Are you running a water/air breather tank? Restricting water going back into the radiator at all?

:cheers:

What ever comp you are aiming for you will have to adjust your cc in the head or deck the head, this depends on how much you are decking also as there is a limit when your valve will get too close to the piston.

The machinist is Wilkins performance 9674 7037 tell him you need the head drilled to eliminate air locks. Mention my name and john skola he will remember.Yes i am running a ARC water bleeder tank you need this its very important. No not restricting water at all well im still waiting to buy a radiator as i need the motor in the car to check clearance as i will be using thermo fans.

Also the best way to measure your squish is by putting a dummy build together with a used head gasket. Place thin lead wire where the squish pads are on the piston and turn the motor once and measure the thickness. from this you can calculate if you need to deck the block or use a thinner gasket.

I hope this info helps

the quench distance is measured from the face of the head where the squish pad actually is to the top of the piston at TDC, skimming the head doesnt change that distance, a thinner or thicker headgasket will change the distance between the quench pad and piston which will yield a different 'quench distance'

other things that will change the squish is machining the block face and or machining top of the piston by a few thou - i dare say that if you do decide to shave some material off the pistons it may have adverse affects on the piston if too much is taken off

Wow that is a blonde moment if I ever had one, embarrassing... thanks mate :)

1mm gaskets and piston sitting above 0.0064" = 0.033" squish

minimum factory recommended valve clearance is 0.080" I've taken 0.090" off my 26 head to get to 10.75:1 and i still have 0.130" intake and 0.180" exhaust piston to valve clearance with a 10cc domed piston

I will check piston to valve clearance before i grind the head

What ever comp you are aiming for you will have to adjust your cc in the head or deck the head, this depends on how much you are decking also as there is a limit when your valve will get too close to the piston.

The machinist is Wilkins performance 9674 7037 tell him you need the head drilled to eliminate air locks. Mention my name and john skola he will remember.Yes i am running a ARC water bleeder tank you need this its very important. No not restricting water at all well im still waiting to buy a radiator as i need the motor in the car to check clearance as i will be using thermo fans.

Also the best way to measure your squish is by putting a dummy build together with a used head gasket. Place thin lead wire where the squish pads are on the piston and turn the motor once and measure the thickness. from this you can calculate if you need to deck the block or use a thinner gasket.

I hope this info helps

Champion !!

i will call you when i get a chance!!

:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...