Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

well oil pump has been installed and running.

BUT......

i drove the car to get petrol last night, ran smooth.

drove it to tuners perfect.

waited for tuner to arrive, started it to move it onto dyno, no oil pressure.

dash gauge showing 0, red light on, defi gauge showing 0.

cracked the oil feed line off the turbo to see if it was dodgy gauges, no oil pressure.

like WTF!!!

any tips or ideas?

  • 3 weeks later...

nice power figure. and that torque curve is awesome

btw how good is craigs work. that guy is seriously amazing the way he can just look at something, figure everything out in his head and just build something that'll fit perfect first time

to be honest we dont know..

pulled the pump back off, pulled the gears out and they were fine, cleaned the PRV and that was fine.

pulled checked the oil filter and all the oil cooler lines and they were fine

removed the oil cooler and used the standard position oil filter no change

chucked some compressed air up the oil galleries whent he sump was off and seemed to push a bit of oil out the pickup.

cleaned the sump, pickup and put it back together and its fine?? lol

Nice power :) I saw you mentioned lack of low end when you posted in the dyno results thread, Nistune don't support VCT right? Coming up with something to get around that (or just upgrading to a G4 Link/some other good aftermarket ECU) should get you bringing boost in a few hundred rpm quicker and making a good amount more torque for the same boost level if you haven't got it engaging already.

ahhhhh thats why when im comparing its different hahaha.. vct boys..

yeh im going to buy a nos rpm switch.

but also going to play around with preload settings on the wastegate once i have fitted the stiffer spring..

had a track day at mallala monday 11/4/11

engine was amazing, abit laggy but im working on that with vct.

595ss dont do any good for track so they will be ditched for some semi slicks.

the guards are gonna get molested more to fit some 245/40/18 semis

getting some rear camber arms to bring the camber to closer to 0

my r34gtt brakes wont seem to bleed properly so all day i had very soft and low pedal. any ideas?

today i started to strip the body to get ready for respray. and to fix all the dents and to get my guards flared more.

and pics of the car today

post-16535-0-72624400-1302747489_thumb.jpg

post-16535-0-72790400-1302747570_thumb.jpg

post-16535-0-20096700-1302747607_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...