Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey recently got my car tuned with the new rb25 hi flow and have found the turbo not to be hitting fullboost till 4500 would like to be able to bring this down as much as possible.

Have been told a steel intake pipe should help with response ?? what about the rubber aftermarket ones ?

At the moment just looking for response. Tuner thinks will make 210 on 18 psi with injectors and afm but really looking for respose bring boost on earlier

greedy fmic

turbotec boost controoler

nisstune

full straight through 3" dump to 3.5" back

.8 plugs

yellow jackets

rb25 hypergear hi flow

186 at 16-15 psi very laggy

cheers

The above intake could be corect i can close the rubber stock pipe with reasonable eas with 2 finger so chance it could be closing a bit ??

post-77561-0-65581900-1297677200_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ke55pig
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353928-help-with-rb20det-response/
Share on other sites

i have but have heard both good and bad stories i gues worst case is no gain at all .Looking for thing to regain response because im not to sure but i thing 450 full boost is pretty dam laggy even on a 20

I understand im not going to get nothing awesome but a mate got a 25/40 and get full boost at 4000 rpm on a 20 something musnt be right with my setup.

Also maybe thinking about e85 have heard of it bringing boost on earlier

Edited by Ke55pig

Well I doubt that because they wont make 20psi under 4000revs on a 25, even a 25/30 would struggle.

E85 will hurt boost response in 99% of cases

if you only want 210rwkws when ditch the high flow and use a standard RB25 Neo (OP6) turbo. or find a RB specific HKS GT2530

I understand im not going to get nothing awesome but a mate got a 35/40 and get full boost at 4000 rpm on a 20 something musnt be right with my setup.

Also maybe thinking about e85 have heard of it bringing boost on earlier

3540 on full boost by 4000 on an rb20? No freaking way, not even with a .63 rear housing. With a .63 rear housing you're lucky to get hit full boost on a rb25 that early dude. Unless he has some top secret goodies and some jungle juice fuel he's using.....

edit: beat me to it zebra

Edited by JKR-32

Well I doubt that because they wont make 20psi under 4000revs on a 25, even a 25/30 would struggle.

E85 will hurt boost response in 99% of cases

if you only want 210rwkws when ditch the high flow and use a standard RB25 Neo (OP6) turbo. or find a RB specific HKS GT2530

Im not ditching it i only bought it awhile ago im looking to make around 230-240 But at the moment would like to get some better response

As stock 20s with 25 turb keep up till top of 3rd kinda sad wen i spend decent money on a turbo and heap of boost.

Get a 3inch hard intake pipe as hypergear mentioned. The turbo can't build up boost if it can't suck in air.

Get an high pressure actuator. That will make lot of differences as stock actuator lets loose at 2psi and fully opens by 7, while high pressure actautor don't starts to open till about 15.

What's the size of your current turbo? I mean wheel sizes as well as ex. housing A/R size. 

Since it's a RB25 highflow, I assume it has like 400-450hp worth of compressor flow and appropriate turbine to support that flow, so must be 2871 52 or 56 trim-sized. Now some easy calcs, just to verify. 450hp turbo on a 2 litre equals to 225hp/litre and should have similar response to a RB25 with a turbo, that provides 225*2.5 = 562.5 hp. This power fits right between GT30R and GT35R turbos, and RB25 spools GT30 at ~3500-4000 and GT35 at 4000-4500, depending on rear housing, so your response sounds right. Even SR20's spool 2871 at  around 4000 rpm (again, depending on compressor trim and housing A/R), and having bigger capacity cylinders they tend to spool turbos better than RB20's.

I'd change your current turbo to a Disco Potato or a 2860R and used it in a RB25 21U housing for more response or in a OP6 housing for slightly more power.

But that's just my opinion.

It's been asked but you haven't answered. Which highflow did you get? Hypergear does quite a few different ones so if you have one of the bigger 280+ capable ones you aren't going to significantly improve your response.

I had one of the original GCG stage 2 highflows on my rb20, same same. lazy coming onto boost and you had to keep the revs up so you didn't drop off boost.

With an rb20 you just have to accept that nothing will happen below 4k. Been there, done that, got an rb25.

Seeing as you havent done injectors or any engine hardware yet, I would say drop an RB25 in with your RB20 cams and forget about the VCT.

Simply bolt all your peripherals to an RB25 long motor and intake manifold and get it retuned. The difference should be everything your looking for plus more, much more torque, better response and about 220rwkw on the stock injectors I believe.

I just dont see a problem with your dyno sheet to be honest. If you were in NSW I would sell you my old RB25 for cheap, too bad it looks like your in SA.

GL

seen more 20s with more mods and still the same, its never going to be responsive dont waste your money and time doing what other people have already tried and had no sucess best thing the cheapest is already mentioned here, pull out the RB20 and slot a RB25 into it you wont regret it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...