Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is an RB being built at the moment that will be a first in the world!

Cant say too much but what i can say that it has been engineered and built here in Australia.

:ninja:

But if had a billion dollars i would have the bottom end made from titanium :)

You dont need a billion to have a Ti bottom end but you do need a lot :)

Ti rods are simple enough to get (with enough money haha). I know one guy who wants Ti pistons, thats going to cost him. Id hate to know what a Ti crank costs and even then how effective it would be. The scary thing is, he's serious

Noel you big old banana bender everyones definition of "Ultimate" is different so it will be virtually impossible to make the ultimate setup, for example rwd vs awd, singles vs twins etc - as you know its the entire package that makes the setup not just a good bottom end and a fancy head :)

Thinking about it, you probably could use titanium for alot of those parts but everything would probably need to be casidium coated to work properly. Might stand half a chance then.

That is right though, everyone has a different idea on ultimate.

Noel you big old banana bender everyones definition of "Ultimate" is different so it will be virtually impossible to make the ultimate setup, for example rwd vs awd, singles vs twins etc - as you know its the entire package that makes the setup not just a good bottom end and a fancy head :)

I dont think so Steve. all drive v rear drive doesnt enter the equation imo and neither does the single/twin debate.

For the sake of the argument lets put a hp limit on it, say 750 hp.

Every man and his dog would prefer the one with the fattest curve making the most torue early and the quickest spool, It aint rocket science.

The cock floppers building 1000 hp plus engines for no reason other than to look good on a dyno are just that.

The lower hp engine would probably make more power under the curve (average power) anyhoos and be a far more driveable combo.

Stevo - Ti Crank wouldnt work, Ti has no twist strength, its strong as f**k if you grab either end and bend it like a banana, but if you grabbed the ends and twisted they are no where near as strong as Steel

Ok well here's what i was getting at; im building another motor now for my GTR (no, nothings wrong with the current one), and im doing a spare head for it aswel just for the sake of trying something no one has done with an RB head before. (dont ask specs or details, will release when ready)

Now, its twin low mounts, target power at crank is 750hp same as your target Noel but also like you the fattest low end and midrange possible with an RB based block BUT still retaining the RB "revvyness". The first head is what one place call ultimate and the second is a totally different direction.

End of the day someone might come along and think its no good being on twins for example - cant please everybody so may aswel make what you think the ultimate is and be happy with that IMO :)

Ok well here's what i was getting at; im building another motor now for my GTR (no, nothings wrong with the current one), and im doing a spare head for it aswel just for the sake of trying something no one has done with an RB head before. (dont ask specs or details, will release when ready)

Now, its twin low mounts, target power at crank is 750hp same as your target Noel but also like you the fattest low end and midrange possible with an RB based block BUT still retaining the RB "revvyness". The first head is what one place call ultimate and the second is a totally different direction.

End of the day someone might come along and think its no good being on twins for example - cant please everybody so may aswel make what you think the ultimate is and be happy with that IMO :)

VCam inlet and exhaust?

You already can buy them and they are stupidly expensive. Last I saw it was something like $1200-$1500 per rod. If someone made them as an off the shelf item the price may be better.

If you had lots of money you would just get alloy rods and use them. Lighter and can handle the 750hp range with 10,000rpm indefinitely, might even work out abit cheaper then titanium rods.

There would be a market for them if they were cheap, however that will be very hard to achieve since titanium itself is very exxy. Its a shame, because titanium for the most part is very cool.

^^ Yes but you will be replacing alloy rods more frequently than ti rods if you plan on turning them past 10,000rpm.

Btw Ti 6AL4V billet rods can be had from $650 u.s each for small block chevy sizes & smaller.

But good alloy rods like BME's would be excellent in a street engine..only downside is size comparison to a steel or ti rod, which can be a pain when clearancing the block or girdle.

i think not Jack, As impressive as that graph is how would it look with another 3/400 cc hanging off the arse end.

if i was going to build my motor again, which i dont realy plan on doing or what to do (costs to much) this is what i would do.

either nitto 3.2l or os giken 3.15l bottom end

full cleaned and prepped 26 head with hks v cam pro

GTRS twin turbos or trust t617s or what ever they are called

manifolds all port matched and that crap

nismo or hypertune plenum

dry sumped

hollinger box and upgraded diffs with good ratios.

i think the setup would go quite well, good response, good power and hopefully pretty reliable

If you could buy Ti rods, would there be a market for them and what would be a realistic price?

nath, pauter do good Ti rods at not too bad a price. but for me alloy rods are a good option. cheper than Ti and lighter too. no where near as strong so may need replacement every now and then in big rpm/big power engines (but i'm talking like 1000hp drag engines etc). the only downside is as someone mentioned they need to be physically larger to be strong enough which can cause problems in a 26 where you don't exactly have a shitload of rod to block clearance to start with...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...