Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering...

Had a new compressor installed.... rest of system checked out all good.... still cost $2000!!!

Anyhow.... I have connected a second electric fan on a remote switch and still the AC is only average whilst driving and only 'coolish' at traffic lights.

Is this normal or should they spit ice ???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354482-r33gtst-average-air-conditioning/
Share on other sites

i would take it back. should be 5 degrees give or take at the vents. if its average whilst driving where the condensor is getting good airflow across it then maybe the gas level is over or undercharged. get them to put some gauges on it and put a good thermometer down the vent.

should be in general maintenance btw

i would take it back. should be 5 degrees give or take at the vents. if its average whilst driving where the condensor is getting good airflow across it then maybe the gas level is over or undercharged. get them to put some gauges on it and put a good thermometer down the vent.

should be in general maintenance btw

+1

Just wondering...

Had a new compressor installed.... rest of system checked out all good.... still cost $2000!!!

Depends on where you took your car for the A/C repair, my A/C repair came up around $1.5k for replacement of compressor & receiver dryer + degas & regas.

Depends on where you took your car for the A/C repair, my A/C repair came up around $1.5k for replacement of compressor & receiver dryer + degas & regas.

holy crap im gonna start up an air con business.

Could be one of your air diverter valves. It could be stuck or busted and is letting the air go through the heater core?

They tend to give some trouble, just an idea considering you just had the AC system serviced and it should be ice cold..

holy crap im gonna start up an air con business.

Yeah, got bum raped by labour costs & the shop used brand new OEM parts *cough* massive over price *cough*.

EDIT: on a side note, I seem to have a problem with my bottom air vents (the ones that blowi air on your feet), they will open when I turn the whole system off?

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Yeah, got bum raped by labour costs & the shop used brand new OEM parts *cough* massive over price *cough*.

EDIT: on a side note, I seem to have a problem with my bottom air vents (the ones that blowi air on your feet), they will open when I turn the whole system off?

thought that was normal? just to keep little bit of fresh air coming in...if not we have the same problem haha

Check the actuator arm behind the climate control (I'm assuming the car has this) actually moves when changing the temperature, it could be stuck in between (dry solder joins deteriorate and crack on R32s, R33s could be the same problem)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...