Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A week ago i was driving on the highway car was running beautiful and then it made a small backfire noise started missing and then died when my foot hit the clutch.

I towed it home and now it won't start.

I have put another cas sensor on it and same story.

I have since checked.

Timing and it was all good.

Spark and coils working fine.

Pulled plug off injectors and checked with multimeter which showed no volts and then 10 when it pulsed. Not sure if that is ok.

Fuel rail is pressurizing and the pump is priming.

Battery shows 12.4 volts but engine is turning over slowly.

Could it not be starting due to not cranking fast enough.

Please help it's killing me not knowing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355165-another-gtr-not-starting/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No it should still fire regardless of whether the cooler pipes are on, might just need some throttle as the un-metered air makes is screwy. Unplug both AFM's and try again, this will put it into a limp home mode which makes the AFR's a bit better for starting.

First point of call if you running a standard ECU is to put it into diags and look for fault codes. Takes so much guess work away from something like this. If you haven't already done this then please try that next.

After that I would do this:

1. Pull fuel line going to rail and check fuel comes out with the first 10 sec prime with ACC on.

2. Pull coil and spark out of no1

3. Pull fuel pump relay out after testing rail pressure

4. Switch IGN to ON

5. Remove CAS and spin it over by hand the direction of the motor (Clockwise with the CAS facing it's orginal position)

6. Verify coil no1 you pulled out earlier sparks (Insure spark is grounding on cylinder head properly)

7. Verify you can hear the injectors ticking, should be quite noticeable without the noise of the motor cranking

See how you go.

Have you got compression?

Injectors should have constant 12V on one pin, the other pin gets switched to earth by the ECU.

There should be a tutorial on how to get diagnostics.

(And how do you check timing if the engine won't run?)

it could be from the piping as said, my r33 had the same proplem it back fired a little then shut off, it still started everytime it clonked out. the intercoller pipe was out leading from the manifold

If ur handy with auto electrics at all. Try running a wire from the positive on the battery to the injector positive(make sure its the positive, should be the same colour wire on all injectors) U only have to connect to 1 of the injector positive wires as there all connected to 1 source. See if ur car starts now. If it does then there might be a break in ur wiring loom somewhere or the ecu injector drive might be fried.

All motors just need three things - air, fuel & spark.

On my Autronic, if the computer doesn't get at least 12.5v then it will not start even if it will crank over. Be sure to charge up the battery to be sure the ECU is getting full voltage.

By the way you said it stopped sounds like fuel or spark to me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...