Jump to content
SAU Community

End Float ?

Jamie72

By Jamie72,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jamie72 Community Regular

Jamie72

Posted
Posted

hi all ,I recently purchased a hks gt2835 pro s of a SAU member,

ive noticed it has some side play which is a little more than i would like but seems like it would still be ok,

the thing i`m not too sure about is front to back movement.applying forward pressure to the turbine shaft then counter on the comp end i get (without

measuring properly) movement forward and back.enough to clearly see and feel..from what ive read the desired end float is zero,

so my question is ...Is there a ok amount of end float or is it likey in need of a rebuild ?

i dont have a dial guage or the like ,is there another way to measure it ? cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355216-end-float/
Share on other sites
75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

when I had this turbo check by a workshop they did say the movement I was worried about was normal for BB turbo and that once it had oil floating the bearings it would be fine....

they said I was worried about nothing and I took their word for it... it seems once I started searching BB turbos do have some movement in them...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355216-end-float/#findComment-5688530
Share on other sites
Jamie72 Community Regular

Jamie72

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey cheers,I did consider oil pressure coming in to play,

but with my limited experience with turbos wanted to be sure b4 fitting it up,

"can you take a guess as to how much end to end movement?" At a guess not much more than 1mm or so,its hard to say though.

After what 75coupe said I feel much better about going ahead :cheers:

Thanks guys for your help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355216-end-float/#findComment-5688633
Share on other sites
WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

my brand new garrett had .5 of a mm, had it off the car about a month ago (after about 10,000kms), still had .5mm... (or there about, something so small I can only just feel it when I push the blades in - think you'll find it will be quite normal )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355216-end-float/#findComment-5688709
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • MBS206
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Duncan
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Duncan · Posted

      Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...