Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

How are we?? Firstly i need to know what is this HICAS stands for and what it actually do??? secondly, Just want to know about HICAS light ....... Since i changed my factory steering wheel to after market steering wheel, this HICAS light just truns ON whenever it likes but doesn't turn off unless i stop my car and start it after 1 or 2 hours.... if i start my car stright away, light comes ON straight away, and when the light is ON , the steering feels bit heavy........ i don't think that its because of aftermarket steering wheel and Boss Kit.......... Majority of skylines got aftermarket steering wheels............. So what you recommend guys???? any help will be highly appreciated.... thanks :worship:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355295-hicas-playing-up/
Share on other sites

when you change the steering wheel you must use an aftermarket boss kit to make hicas work

hicas is rear wheel steering over 80km/h

its expecting sensors in the steering wheel to work out where you are turning

without those (no boss kit) it panics and throws an error

when you change the steering wheel you must use an aftermarket boss kit to make hicas work

hicas is rear wheel steering over 80km/h

its expecting sensors in the steering wheel to work out where you are turning

without those (no boss kit) it panics and throws an error

THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY MATE, BUT I ALREADY GOT AFTERMARKET BOSS KIT ............

hmm well is it the correct model or setup properly / aligned it?

given it only broke when you changed the steering wheel, id say it might not be correct or something?

have you got the old steeering wheel you can put back on to confirm it works again OK?

hicas is like a cock flovoured lolipop.... totally useless.

get a lock bar :)

Agree with Hamish. whilst I have no idea what a cock flavoured lolipop tastes like, i do recommend you replace the HICAS with a lock bar, this will remove the problem :cheers:

Lock bars are for people who can't drive a real car. rofl.gif

If a big steel bar was better than Hicas, Nissan would have fitted it from factory.

Real drivers feel the change during the corner and appreciate what it does for the handling. Other drivers whine that the car did something they weren't expecting and have a cry.

Lock bars are for people who can't drive a real car. rofl.gif

If a big steel bar was better than Hicas, Nissan would have fitted it from factory.

Real drivers feel the change during the corner and appreciate what it does for the handling. Other drivers whine that the car did something they weren't expecting and have a cry.

with only 229kw, i'm sure your 32 GTR is a real animal to handle with all that powahhh :rolleyes:

Lock bars are for people who can't drive a real car. rofl.gif

If a big steel bar was better than Hicas, Nissan would have fitted it from factory.

Real drivers feel the change during the corner and appreciate what it does for the handling. Other

drivers whine that the car did something they weren't expecting and have a cry.

Haha are u serious, hicas was put there to prevent oversteer and make the car more 'tame', ppl remove it causes its a crap idea, something for ppl who cant drive 'real' cars. Who wants there rear end moving around when they want predictable handling.

Remove it and your problem is solved, best cheap mod you can do.

Lock bars are for people who can't drive a real car. rofl.gif

If a big steel bar was better than Hicas, Nissan would have fitted it from factory.

Real drivers feel the change during the corner and appreciate what it does for the handling. Other drivers whine that the car did something they weren't expecting and have a cry.

lol, so every car in the world that doesn't have HICAS is not a real car? If HICAS was better than a big steel bar, Nissan wouldn't have ditched it themselves :)

It's good at what it's supposed to do...but many systems end up faulty, and there is nothing wrong with wanting to drive a car the way you expect it to. For the extra 10kg of dead weight, you're better off with a tube of lightweight steel and handling just like every other RWD car ever made.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...