Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, hope I have put this in the correct section.

I have started a transplant of a RB25DET S2 Manual into my 1971 LC Holden Torana. I bought a complete crashed donner R33 Series 1 4 door with S2 Motor so I though I would have everything there but once I got it home relized that the guy had cut out the ECU. So I was left with a Engine to 100 wires loom and no ECU.

I have bought ECUs and 2 looms but both have not worked, and one didnt even have the white plug on it.

So now, wonder what other options I have? Should I just buy a aftermarket loom and ECU? Is that possible or will I still need a good R33 Engine to ECU Loom? I have 99% of it there but it has been cut 5cm from the ECU Plug.

The plans for the motor are mild, it has a FMIC, I plan on putting a high mount turbo manifold and front facing plenum to allow for space between the rails and decent exhaust but thats about it. I also plan on using the R33 Dash in the Torana.

I appreciate any info I can get. :)

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355619-rb25det-engine-loom-and-ecu-options/
Share on other sites

S1 and s2 looms and ecus are different and not to well compatible in my experience has something to do with the coil pack wiring and setup if that's any help are you sure it's a series 2 motor because they look identical to an untrained eye hope that helps

you can buy a short patch loom (call field extender or some such). it's used when people need to add stuff to their car that needs factory sensor signals but don't want to start hacking into their wiring. it basically has a female ECU plug on one end and the normal male plug on the other to extend the look a little. if you have everything but the ecu plug then I would buy one of those (about $100). cut off the female plug. then attach the wires to the ones now coming out of the male plug. the wiring diagram for the ecu connector is easy to find so that shouldn't be too hard.

they look like this:

H-111_500.jpg

This might be a option. :)

I tired it with the Series 1 loom that I bought, cut off the plug and but had a few wires in the harness that had the same colour multiple times. Plus the series one loom has different colours and missing wires. Headache.

Its fairly easy. Just find yourself a S2 loom, uncut, chuck it in, and there will be a few wires you need to power up for it to run.

Theres a grey plug on the P/S side which is power for injectors and coilpacks etc. Wire a couple up to power and thats done.

Then there will be 2 or 3 white plugs which require start signal and a few others to run.

It ll be tricky...Pinouts and wiring diagrams will help you.

If you want to run the 33 dash then thats going to be a bit (alot) of work. Just run a Monster tach or something for rpm! OR if youre really keen, transplant an entire R33 loom into the car! That will make things alot easier with wiring IMO.

If youre willing to do it yourself itll be alot cheaper than having an auto elect wire up a full standalone such as a WOLF or something else.

Youll also save on tuning if you can run a std ECU or even a PowerFC is alot easy to tune than a universal ECU and will run better.

Cheers guys. Picked up a unmolested SII Loom tonight so will put that into the car on Thursday and see how it goes. Hope it starts.

I did thinking about transplanting whole loom, but I wont be running things like the A-LSD, Airbags, A/C so how will the ECU preform?

Failing that you could have just grabbed a brand new one from Nissan.

They are actually rather cheap - around $600$-$700 if you can get someone to order trade.

Considering you've already brought 2 or 3 2nd hand ones so far, and all the fk assing around, would have been easier.

But as Femno said - just use as much of the loom as you can. It'll be much easier than using some of it and then wiring in another ECU entirely. That'll give you more headaches than you have already.

Well the car its going into is super basic. No ECU's to be seen in 1971! So the extra wiring might be handy.

Plugged it all in last night and was left with some extra plugs (3 with decent gage wiring) up behind the rear of the pass side strut tower.

Plus a extra one down near the ECU. There is:

- Blue ECU Plug - PLUGGED IN

- 1 Relay - PLUGGED IN

- 1 White Plug (Which I think goes to the Dash) - PLUGGED IN

- 1 White Plug that is smaller than above - Nothing to plug it into?

I was guarantied that it is out of a SII R33 DET Man.

Part of me thinks its a SI Car with a S2 Motor in it. Any ideas? If that doesn't make sense can get pics up tonight.

Cheers for the help.

Edited by MODNIZD

I think the one near passenger side strut tower is for the skyline wiper motor.

Have u tried to start it yet? Does the fuel pump prime Nd more to the point what fuel pump are u using and have u wired an ecu triggered relay for it?

Nah I have that one plugged in.

So it turns over, I have Power on the Coils, Fuel Pump is running. What do I check next?

These are the unknown plugs.

It looks like the half of the plug below this photo, would plug into this on the left.

post-74735-0-90152700-1299150368_thumb.jpg

post-74735-0-28848700-1299150383_thumb.jpg

post-74735-0-99754400-1299150395_thumb.jpg

and here are the plugs near the wiper motor that I have no idea what they do.

post-74735-0-25622900-1299150814_thumb.jpg

Looks like plugs for abs unit

The other two plugs by the air box will most likely be for the boost solenoid and the ac compressor? (if its a single wire) maybe u can though up a pic of those as well....wouldnt affect the running even though

Edited by Don Dada

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...