Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, so the time has come for me to get new coils for my 20 as i still have the original ones >_<.

Was browsing through the fab section and saw a post on ls1 coils on a rb20, nothing was really discussed in detail so did a search and found some scattered info of people doing this and saying nothing but good things about them.

My question is who on here has done this on there rb? Was it an easy install?

I would really appreciate any info on this as I'm considering going this route as a full set (8) ls1 coils is roughly half the price of splitfires.

One massive pro to this setup is you can can your standard ignitor as the coils have them inbuilt, which seems really good as i'm sure the standard 20 odd year old ignitor would be the weakest link after upgrading to say some new splitfires.

Also having them mounted of the engine has to be better for a coil, not having all the heat go straight into the coil.

But can a standard ecu run them? They apparently can but there is stuff all info out there.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355885-ls1-coils-on-a-rb/
Share on other sites

The ignitor is just a high speed switch only in this case they are built into the coil assembly .

Some will say that returning to high tension leads is a backwards step in this day and age .

I reckon by the time you muck around with brackets leads wiring etc you may not have a lot to gain and it creates a bit of an eyesore .

Can you source good second hand std coils or explore ones off other RB twin cam engines ?

A .

I know OT but so much more to be gained from a 25 if you can manage it .

Why not go 26 ones as they are a bit newer? Or just get some yellow jackets or splitfires?

Avoid the red ones (won't put brand in for obvious reason) however they didn't last 24hrs

IMO yellow jackets are bang for buck and 200+ cheaper than splitfires and gave better results on my car

I use them along with 8/10 other rb fans I know.

They nurder the splitfire for reliability and throw a much fatter spark.

The better coil to use is the ls2 chevy truck coil. It will start bushfires in the next state. Can pick them up quite cheap off ebay too.

I read the diy but will the rb20 wiring be the same?

Basically I would go with the yellow jackets but how long have they been around for? No point buying a product that has a 2 year warranty when the company might not be around in a year or so. Not to mention theres stuff all info on where there made.

I'm going to see how much i can get ls2 coils for and go from there, no point if the setup is the same or more the splitfires. It looks promising though as the ls2 coils are meant to have a big spark.

Getting the car tuned and some other issues sorted and tuner told me that two of my coils are leaking to ground. Options:

1. repalce OEM ones with OEM ($$$)

2. aftermarket (not as much $$$ as above)

3. LS1 coils (that I ended up getting for free)

I think I will go with option 3... anyone got some decent photos of how they mounted them? Or what leads they used?

I use them along with 8/10 other rb fans I know.

They nurder the splitfire for reliability and throw a much fatter spark.

How did you find that out? Back to back, same tune, same plugs etc test on a dyno?

Bugger paying $200 each, the best of the 3 types (the LS2 Truck Coil-with the heat sink on the top) is only $24.75 each with $60 postage for all 6. So ~$209 all together. And these put out 120mA as opposed to 40mA for the base LS2 type. What do the factory coils put out?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNITION-COIL-CADILLAC-GM-HUMMER-ISUZU-VEHICLES-UF262-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2d7a3fedQQitemZ400194945005QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Edited by D_Stirls

Well I know why Nissan went straight coil on plug, there is f**k all room to mount the LS1 coils especially trying to have them neat and with equal length leads. Having a mate come round tomorrow to give me a hand.

I read the diy but will the rb20 wiring be the same?

Basically I would go with the yellow jackets but how long have they been around for? No point buying a product that has a 2 year warranty when the company might not be around in a year or so. Not to mention theres stuff all info on where there made.

I'm going to see how much i can get ls2 coils for and go from there, no point if the setup is the same or more the splitfires. It looks promising though as the ls2 coils are meant to have a big spark.

I think I have had my RB20 yellow jackets for around 2 years now... They are still holding more power/boost without any issues than I would imagine you will ever need with a RB20

Well I got a dummy bracket made up which should do the trick; now I need to sort out the wiring. Will get a photo up of them mounted this weekend, if it looks as neat as I hope I might even do a kit.

By the way does anyone know if you still use the OEM "noise suppressor condensor" on the power feed to the LS1 coils?

Edited by bigmikespec

So the ones listed on ebay in the us there not a genuine gm coil are they? Just figured if your gonna get them might as well get the real deal instead of a cheaper knockoff.

If they are genuine then f**k me there cheap, so much cheaper then any decent replacement coils, well worth the hassles of mounting and wiring.

Still cant decide on whether to run these of just get yellow jackets, kinda running out of time before my tune, so kinda need to make a decision asap >_<

One issus i have noticed is the dwell time on the coils, i'm guessing you'll need to adjust it via the ecu as it has to be set to around 5ms, not to sure what a standard rb coil's dwell time is?

Edited by eightsixboy

This is what I use when I want a good cheap COP coil

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-BA-BF-NEW-COIL-ORIGINAL-XR6-TURBO-4-0L-/190507883608?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5b279c58

They are just as strong as LS1 coils. Had no problems on a 2jz @30psi of boost with a 0.9mm gap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...