Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know the specs for the stock RB25 turbo in an R33 1993 model (Series 1??) or can point me in the right direction. I've had a search and come up with nothing useful.

Anyway, What manufacturer/ model, How much power they're good for, How much boost is too much, component sizes, bearings, etc. Any & all specs.

Also a question relating to twin turbos: Is it OK to run 2 different size turbos?, say 3 cylinders feeding 1 turbo and 3 cylinders feeding the larger turbo?

I've got an R33 turbo and a GTIR turbo and I'm looking at building a twin turbo TD42 thats good down low in the rpm range as well as up higher. Basically my normal Patrol forum

doesn't cater for twin turbo info and other Skyline stuff so I came here for info.

If anyone has any GTIR Pulsar turbo info, that would be great too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355974-specs-for-r33-stock-turbo-rb25/
Share on other sites

Stock rb turbo is useless. Throw it in the bin. With the patrol what do u expect to gain from a twin turbo setup compared to a single turbo that is matched perfectly for the size and rpm of the engine?

Msg hypergear, im sure he can tell u what turbo ro use on it

Does anyone know the specs for the stock RB25 turbo in an R33 1993 model (Series 1??) or can point me in the right direction. I've had a search and come up with nothing useful.

Anyway, What manufacturer/ model, How much power they're good for, How much boost is too much, component sizes, bearings, etc. Any & all specs.

Also a question relating to twin turbos: Is it OK to run 2 different size turbos?, say 3 cylinders feeding 1 turbo and 3 cylinders feeding the larger turbo?

I've got an R33 turbo and a GTIR turbo and I'm looking at building a twin turbo TD42 thats good down low in the rpm range as well as up higher. Basically my normal Patrol forum

doesn't cater for twin turbo info and other Skyline stuff so I came here for info.

If anyone has any GTIR Pulsar turbo info, that would be great too.

2 Different size turbos in that configuration would make the thing drive really awful. Either use same size turbo for each lot of 3 cylinders or use 2 different size turbos in series/sequential etc.

But with those turbos I dont think your going to gain much/anything from a series/sequential setup. 4.2L Diesel is going to be inefficent with those turbos anyway. Do it properly or you will be disapointed you wasted your money

Edited by 89CAL

You would probably be better off looking into turbo diesel engines of your capacity and seeing what turbos they use as standard . This would give you a base line into sizing which is a good start .

Be vary carefull not to go too big on diesel turbos because you have a limited rev range to start with , also diesels mostly lower combustion temps means you can run a fair bit of boost without melting anything .

You get a bit of a free ride with detonation ignition too !

Also make sure the intercooling is adequate because diesels like good charge cooling as well .

A .

Be it myself building a truck with a RB, I would simply have the factory turbo high flowed and give a description of the desired outcome to the machinist.

I think Hypergear will honestly be a great option for you. Simply tone down your expectations for top end power as you really dont want a top end turbo in a truck. A basic highflow however might see you VERY happy.

GL

  • 2 years later...

You need to read articles about how turbos work. Have a Google.

you can't run two turbos, different sizes off only half a cylinder bank.

As for 25 stock turbos... Read the Dyno sticky thread yet?

synchronus charging?

Compound charging?

as apposed to a normal twin charging..has been done before, tho this is a waste of time in this situation specially with these 2 turbos..

build something like this in stead :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...