Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

just trying to get as much info as possible on the Hancook z221s. I have noticed that times are getting slashed by those who are using these and they are now the tire of choice in japanese time attack (hence why i got a set to compensate for my driving abilities :P )

Is it a better compound? or the fact that they are just wider? i have two examples where an Evo that previously went 41's aound EC on 265's Ao50's

ran a pb at the latest round of sprints dipping into the 39's on 295 Z221s and the other being a FD in SA going 3 secs quicker throughout the day when switching from Dunlops Dz03's in the first session

EVO - P2

http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?26/02/2011.EAST.S1

FD - P2

http://www.orion-timing.com/1028/20110306/1028_20110306_001_03_01.htm

i guess some useful pointers would be what pressures some people run on there particular tires.

My experiences with advans that yielded the best times are

A050's - 34psi cold 36 hot

Ad08s - 32psi cold 34 hot

i was suppose to try out my set last saturday at the sau/renew track day but time got the better of me with getting the car ready.

I will definately post up some results as soon as i get out there

:cheers:

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356603-hankook-z221s-vs-ao50sre55sdz03s/
Share on other sites

As to the times from Kalis in the EVO, he also has gone wide body with wider wheels and track from last year so could be a combination or upgrades? But I’m watching people on Hankook’s very closely as well to what tyre will be best for time attack. The 26th Feb at the creek was a very worm day with very high track temps so maybe it did suit the Hankook’s more will be interesting to see feedback from cooler day eg winter at Wakefield.

Anyone know track temps that the japs would see at their time attack events?

Will look forward to reports once you have tested them also Steve keep us posted with results.

Just keep in mind you can't really rely on the "top" time attack teams to get a real and accurate picture of the pace of a tyre.

They use the tyre in a different way to mere mortals like myself, I want a tyre to be both fairly quick, but also usefull for several track days. We all know how expensive they are!

The top teams use the tyre completely differently, typically there is a "sweet" zone, a zone where that particular tyre will go outrageously quick to set "the" time, but after that one lap, it's past its prime and will never be as quick again.

At EC last year..... it was worth 2 seconds using the tyre correctly. TWO seconds! But after that, the tyre was effectively a rag.

On a typical mid 20's day, around 6 psi mate.

Obviously it's track or road dependant, ie, how hard the tyre and brakes are working.

On a typical day at Lakeside, I'll kick off at 28psi cold, but first session they'll be up to 36 or so, so I bleed back to 32 and there they stay usually. Obviously I check them during the day to ensure there's no issues.

Anyone know what the 295/18's are worth a pop?

Nice to see another tyre though. Seems in GTR sizes they come in both S and MH compound. Would be good to test regardless.

I.ve been quoted just over 500 a corner for that size from a local guy who deals only in slicks and semi's Snowy.

Over 200 a pop cheaper than the direzza's. Gotta be worth a try at that price.

  • 3 months later...

I normally get between 6-8 psi more pressure from cold to hot too, depending on what corner the tyre is on. LF cops the most work (and therefore pressure increase) at Lakeside.

I set my pressures a bit differently to some though. I find my car is always faster in the first few laps of a session - probably due to heat soak as the session goes on. My top speeds continually seem to drop off each lap, even if the corner speed onto the straight doesn't. So I am happy to let my tyres go ~2-3 psi higher by the end of a 5 lap session than I ideally want them, to try and have them at their optimum pressure at the same time the car is at its best - lap 2 or 3. That's my theory anyway.

  • 3 weeks later...

i know with the older 048's we ran in the utes, 1810kg,, 235's we set out at eastern creek at 28 and bleed them off at 40. they seem happiest at 40-45psi hot. heavy car and probably not relavent. but worth knowing i spose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...