Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been looking at getting a highflow cat before i get a tune, but what brands are legal? I'm talking more about the metal core ones as i guess all the ceramic ones are legal.

I have been looking at the venom ones and magnaflow, they are both priced about the same, leaning more towards the venom but it doesnt say if its epa legal where as the magnaflow states that it is.

Does anyone know if the venom ones are legal? No point getting a cat only to possibly get epa'd and mass fines etc etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356720-what-highflow-cats-are-legal/
Share on other sites

Anything above 200CPI legal no matter the brand. The difference between a high flow cat and a straight pipe is minimal at best and when the police can now road side test for a cat would you be willing to pay the huge fine?

+1, i have the "Metal cat" metal cat which has adr and epa codes lazered on the body

Just get an old one and bash a pipe thru the middle cut an weld the pipe to the flanges and bolt it up the only way they can tell is with a temp gun on a hoist looks the part I have mine like that and have passed pits with it lol

we know this base.

Some people want to Pass the (IM240 test) it is an emission test done at the EPA. nothing like having a 400kw RB on e85 passing emissions

you will need a cat to pass this test even if the emissions are fine without one.

i was looking at running a XR6 Turbo cat on my exhaust for emission test. :ph34r:

then have a second exhaust as mentioned

I think they have done tests before between a 200cpi and straight pipe and found the difference to be less then a percent. 1% for 10k fine no thanks. Also Base308 do realise police have been known to carry out road side tests before.

Edited by blcklncer

Paul not sure how to answer as if the question is related to 'what is an EPA legal cat' that's different to 'what cat can I pass emissons with'. When I passed all they did was check the gas readings not the cat itself. Maybe ask whoever is doing your emissions tune what they prefer, its in the tune probably more so than the cat.

Edited by Scooby

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...